Here you’ll find the detail on how Gary built his '59 “Plodge” Mayfair, “Finnegan”. Visit it in The Showcase!
Trying to decode my car and not having much luck probably because it’s a Canadian car?
I want to be sure it’s a 313 poly before I order any parts!
[The Canadian data plate in the first pic is inscrutable to me, Gary - but the VIN plate on the door post shares the format with the US. The “M” indicates the 1959 model year; the 8 indicates the car line (not a US number - probably indicates CN Dodge); the 5 indicates the model (5 is for Mayfair, the Belvedere equivalent), and the 9 indicates that it was built in Windsor, CN. The rest of the number is where your car fell in production, starting with 100001. Yours was the 2,252nd off the line in Windsor.
I don’t know if Plodges were ever built with a 361 equivalent - another V8 option for Plymouth - but your engine is definitely a Poly as I’m sure you now know, based on the location of the distributor in the rear and the scalloped valve covers. -Dan]
Getting ready to replace my inner and outer rockers and sections of the floor on my 1959 Dodge Mayfair (Plodge) I have a Lincoln electric welder and a torch set. I’m far better at brazing/welding. Is any one way better than another? Have done a lot of metal work on other cars all with welding/brazing. Only used electric to tack exhaust when I had my shop. Floor panels should arrive today.
I started on the floor, inner and outer rockers. Worst rust was Lf. rear behind drivers seat. Cut everything out and replaced the aft section of the inner rocker. Cut out lf. rear floor and replaced it. Used a combination of mig and old fashioned brazing. Did it on the floor rather than up on the hoist as I could see the doors misaligning slightly when on the hoist.
I usually pick things up pretty quick, but I suck at Mig welding. Outer rocker is only a test fit. It goes on last. Have to do both inner rockers first.
The entire floor pan,(6 sections) both inner and outer rockers are all available from Classic to Current. I only have to fabricate some of the rusted cross braces.
Finished the drivers side floor!
The gas pedal assembly goes through a hole in the floor. I see no trace of a rubber boot or the like. I have the 4 vol. set of the manuals for the Canadian version, but no illustration of the pedal. What goes there? Edit: Thanks for all the help, got a part number!
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Working on the rear of the body on my '59 Plodge - the rear window seal. I cleaned it best I could and dug out anything loose and added more sealer. The is a small water leak in the trunk at the corners,not the middle. Stays indoors until I deal with it. I would prefer to pull the rear glass and reseal one day.
Wow! removing the trunk seal from the channel is brutal! To much stuff bouncing off my face, will have to invest in a face shield! Safety glasses aren’t cutting it.
This is the part where I tell myself “Just finish the damn thing! Nobody’s gonna see that on a white car!” Stalling for time before finishing the pass floor and rockers
I’m getting the taillight assy’s from the '59 Plodge ready to go out for chroming and I can’t seem to remove the bulb sockets.
They look pressed in place. Do I have to break them out and replace them?
[The answer is yes! They’re pressed in, and must be broken out.]
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Working on the back of the Plodge (The Plymouth end) and i noticed a row of holes that wouldn’t be visible with the bumper in place…
Was there a filler strip at some point between the bumper and the back of the car?
[Yup! They are neoprene, and Quirey Quality Design (who bought out Gary Goers) has 'em, along with the clips that hold them into place. -Dan]
The Plodge got some lovin’ this week! Cleaning the rust up around the trunk seal and cleaning and fixing the pin holes in the trunk pan and sealing with epoxy and paint!
Plodge rust repair on the dog leg. Step 1, buy Rice Crispies, Eat them and use the box as a template.
Trace out the piece to be fabricated and trace out the metal.
Cut it and weld it in. Presto.
Disclaimer: Not a body guy! Retired VW/Audi/ Mercedes shop owner. Just a hacker doing the best I can with what I have. I know Brass is bad, but I suck at Mig so there’s that.
Now I’m looking for a pair of rust free fender skirts for my 59 Plodge. (Same as "59 Plymouth) I need them to act as a template to reconstruct my rusted out wheel opening. Got the dog leg done. Hoping to avoid the “Hate skirts, love skirts” discussion. As close to Regina Saskatchewan as possible, as shipping would probably be pricy.
Had a chance to start on the quarterpanel from hell on the '59 Plodge Mayfair. All the rusted metal is cut out and 2 patches are in place. The area behind the wheel was much worse than it looked and the complete bottom of the quarter will have to be replaced. 1 patch above the wheel is in from behind, but not attached at the wheel well until the skirts arrive to get the opening right. Last, will be replacing the rusted metal I cut out of the inner wheel well, but that shouldn’t be too hard. So glad the other side is done!
