Matthew left this morning at 8a, en route to Florida by way of Shelby, NC where he plans to pick up some parts. I am going to miss him…
While he was here, we managed to get one side of the manifold exhaust off - and not the side I thought! It turns out, the driver’s side was still studded. I was so afraid to put the breaker bar to them for fear of snapping them and having to drill out, they looked so bad:
But we went slow to minimize any heat expansion of the studs due to friction, and don’t you know those crown nuts broke loose and turned off. Wire brushing and soaking in WD-40 really paid off.
It was the passenger side - where the bolts are - that proved to be the problem. I just couldn’t get a socket on the rear side, the manifold exhaust pipe is in the way; and we couldn’t get purchase on the bolt head on the front side. Another reason to remove the fenders, in addition to rustproofing them, access to clean the front end, and detailing the engine compartment.
Dick, the valence and splash pan are on their way to you via Keij Express. Sorry I didn’t find the time to come up with a box big enough for them, you’ll have to resort to your enginuity.
Dan
Received - Portawalls too. Many thanks, Dick!
Not to worry, got a box all ready to go.
Dick
There’s a stiff hot wind out of Palm Beach County that’s been terrorizing Fildelfya. We tried to put a wall up at the state line, but there was no stopping it.
Not much going on in the Faulkner garage this weekend - not that it was any cooler, but I spent some time putting up a movable fence with a gate, since we’re talking about getting a puppy. Coming up on six years since the Bailster’s been gone, and I’m still really missing him.
When Matthew was here, he helped me take the front seat out of Faulkner. Today I got the remaining door panels off before I succumbed to the heat - but pulled the carpet up to take a couple quick pix. Not surprising, based on what I see underneath, but except for some surface rust here and there the floorboards are in excellent shape.
Dan - You may want to reconsider and install a page fence metal gate. When l was a wee small boy we had a gate just like that. My dog ate it.
Dick.
Wait, they had plastic back then? 
My bad, mine was wood and l kid you not, he ate it. He was half collie and half German shephard.
Dick
Well Dan, you wanted pics! Here’s one of the master at work
It is wood, Dick - but clad in plastic. Not that a ravenous doggie couldn’t make short work of plastic either! But Bailey got over his chewing stage pretty quickly - I’m hoping Exner (I kid you not! That will be his name) the Beagle will have a similar temperament.
OMG! Already, I don’t recognize it.
Dan
Believe me, it got worse before it got better, the Valance that is!! Matthew gets some credit, he helped me strip all that Bondo off.
Dick.
Ever since Matthew left, the superheated West Palm Beach Clipper has been toasting the garage. I just couldn’t bring myself to climb under the car today, so I piddled around in the interior compartment. Removed the kick panels and retainers, all the windlacing (replacement on order from Goers), the rear shelf and the last of the panels. Debating whether to remove the interior upper rails and headliner panels, to make painting less worrisome.
Here’s the gutted interior. The floor looks really good…
…except for this one spot on the front passenger side. In some places, the coating is really thick, and cracked - I’ve got to pry it out and get ospho in there.
I’ve noticed, I can see daylight at the base of the gas pedal. Is there a Goers grommet for that?
Dan
Lucky man Dan, those floors really look good. Ospho, encapsulator, sound and heat barrier and you are good to go. The gas pedal has a rubber boot (Gary Goers) that hangs under the floor. Take the pedal off and you will see a plate with 3 machine bolts, soak good with penetrant then remove, the boot mounts under the plate. Dan l recommend you get a tub of white grease and with a light of some kind smear the grease on the window operating mechanisms moving points, sliders, rollers, exposed gears etc. It’s a messy job but well worth it. It’s easier with your fingers than a brush.
Dick
Dang! just placed my order - will call him to get it added. This guy, right?
Dan, when l did a redo on Charleen l took the roof panels down and found some light rust. I used O & E and replaced the insulation, Ace has it on a roll and sells it by the foot. The panels are much easier to paint with them out. If the panels are deteriorating or cracking at various places it’s a good time to reinforce, l used gorilla duct tape. The side rails are not stainless they are chrome plated and will clean up nicely with 0000 steele wool, then use carnauba paste wax.
Dick
Dick, do you mean, the car is much easier to paint with them out? I repainted mine a while back (here’s the post), they’re holding up pretty well, although they need a touchup in some spots. But I would remove them, if there’s a risk they might get flashed with overspray.
BTW, my roof rails were rechromed - I think I may have gotten painted rails from John Fowlie, so there was little corrosion. Ed Ober provided some very decent door rails I had rechromed.
Dan
No, l meant painting the panels out of the car. I didn’t remember you painted them previously. Any good auto painter worth his salt will mask to protect the interior.
Dick
Hi guys
Curious about the accelerator boot
Are you saying that this mounts underneath the floor?
I assume the accelerator ordeal lever pushes theru it and stops water coming in?
Cheers
Vic
Vic - Part of the pedal mechanism has a plate with three holes for the mounting bolts. The rod actuator goes thru the hole in the boot then the boot goes thru the large hole in the floor and is between the floor and the plate with the three holes. The boot protrudes under the car.
Dick
Cheers
May have to come up with my own invention to seal the floor given I waited 2 years to receive my latest parcel
