Converting A-466 to A-727 push button 62 to 65. I performed this conversion many years ago, and are revisiting it now, helping a friend of ours resurrect a non-moving forward look convertible. after pricing front pumps and torque convertors as well as rebuild kits, We decided to up grade to a still serviceable A-727 push button operated transmission. I like this conversion being it works so well and still can push start the vehicle if necessary, and uses a starter that is easy to find.
Known problems in conversion;
Crank shaft length difference and number of flex plate bolts. Finding the 62 E brake tail housing some trucks used this also and later years.
Solutions;
Change out crank shaft with 62 or newer, take your old crank shaft to engine balance provider and have it indexed and match the old balance.
use an adapter kit.
We are using and adapter kit being retaining the long stroke A engine. Hot Heads on the left and R&D Power Engineering right Gold B&M 426 Hemi flex plate. Prefer the on on right for many reasons.
will continue as work progresses.
Way cool, Rick! Keep those cards and letters (and pix) coming!
Sunny today but not warm. Decided I’d better continue this endeavor and not find my human remains on the couch. I found a huge mess of brown shoe polish coating everything and about 1/8 inch deep in transmission pan, and clogged filter screen. Disassembled everything including band servos. Scrapped off all the brown shoe polish I could get to trying, not to ruin my solvent tank. Found rear pump check valve also to be clogged, but the rear pump survived and is still useable. Yes I did spray off the valve body with brake clean before removal. Planning on changing second gear band apply lever to a better ratio, and installing a drain plug in the pan, an inline transmission cooler line filter not just a magnet as well as a Gil Younger shift kit, so we can select the RPM when the transmission shifts. Pictures below
Continuing E brake repair and cleaning, found pieces to be missing, like adjuster wheel and pivot shaft and bad E brake shoes. Lots of cleaning to finish. More pictures below.
Finally a warm enough day to continue on the project, fun project. Just making sure everything is going to work, so far everything is great..
A busy morning, chiropractor, physical therapy, pick up medication at Walgreens, ‘not mine’. Finally at lunch time I was able to continue on this project. Missing E-brake parts located and delivered, the cleaning continues, broke into rebuild kit and no out put seal, found two at advance auto, also delivered. NAPA failed… Just mine. Soaking clutches in ATF will make things work smoothly on initial maiden voyage, also stops internal rusting if you store the transmission for future use. I found the old seals from 1963 to be mostly serviceable, but all seals are being replaced. Failed or cracked seals found; output shaft, kickdown link into case, low reverse servo piston, outer high and reverse drum outer and front pump was damaged in storage. All paper and rubber will be replaced as well as clutches and steels, with best quality available. picked up rebuilt torque-convertor, ouch prices went up.
Refurbished forward drum, new clutches rubber seals, clearances checked, installed new thrust bearing between input and output shafts with bronze, replacing fiber board original that was still serviceable just old. my preference of band apply lever ratios are 3.8 to 4.2 on this type build.
rebuilding front pump after cleaning, replaced front pump/torque convertor babbitt bushing and new oil seal, large o ring and paper gasket. lots of grease or assembly lube is okay.
Cold and windy still, sunny though. Starting on valve body cleaning, repair and modification. Found some water damage and will require attention. Note the reverse lock out safety check, exclusive to push button or cable shifted transmissions, and the dual pump check valves, for front and rear pumps. I try not to expose my lungs to solvents if possible, working outside helps the most. you would be surprised how well paper towels clean, just by rubbing yuck off of the parts. Cloth rags forbidden, on valve body work. Nitrile gloves are the best. As you can see we have a small amount of rust damage, lucky we can steal parts from the 62 valve body.
Cool to see this going down, Rick!
'Splain this to me. Do they leave fibers behind, nothing that can be cleaned up with a little isopropyl?
Paper towels do not leave behind large loose fibers. Large fibers say like shop rags, that can get stuck in the valves/spools stopping their action until removed. Isopropyl, Ethanol and methanol co-solvents work great for flushing and cleaning, but are very flammable. I do use these in a well ventilated area, and carefully. Solvents that smell like paint thinner and of dry cleaning fluid or chlorinated solvents are more toxic.
Charles Mervine, the Chrysler engineer that designed the Power-Flite automatic transmission died from carbon-tetrachloride poisoning.
Celebrated New Years Eve and Day in Sheridan Wyoming and southern Montana. Arrived back yesterday evening, driving through a horrible wind storm for hundreds of miles on the return trip. This morning I went to John Quinn’s to see what was happening and we went to check on vehicle storage and to repair a gate there. John wanted to check out the transmission project, so we retuned to my place and John supervised the operation being we had a nice warm day. Valve body modification and spring changes started, with separator plate drilling and filing required to illuminate any burrs and repair check ball seats, as the pictures show note valve body drill guide plate. John noted the forward look emblem cast into the valve body. I like the Gil Younger kits for the early A-727 transmissions.
Warmer today but windy, some mock up work and air testing of clutches and servos. I had some difficulty removing rear oil seal, installed new replacment easily. Mock up installation of emergency brake parts.
Today, I found another 62 A-727, Guessing I will be doing a couple of these changeover transmission conversions.
Another nice afternoon… So I finished cleaning and the emergency brake rebuild continues. Check the pictures and note the Snap-On e-brake adjuster tool hanging on the e-brake drum. Also installed a new larger drain plug into transmission pan. NOTE: Relined brake shoes.
Ah… So that’s what the proper tool looks like! Sure beats a flat blade screwdriver.
Adjusting E brake, New kick down seal installed from out side, Drain plug installation required silver soldering in lock nut. The transmission is done.
Pictures of engine adapter and modern easy to find high speed starter, Please note the TR waters adapter is missing securing holes? you can drill and add these fairly easily but why were they not included? The R & D power engineering is nicer with a steel crank adapter not an aluminum piece. also easier to dial in. Guess which one I will be using?
Replace this O ring, or you will have a leak. Anyone for leftovers? With the rooster comb in the center detent, have an assistant hold the drive button in, adjust in the adjustment wheel, secure with screw and test, use a powered test light and make sure your neutral safety is actuated in neutral. you also can watch the rooster comb through the safety switch hole. /b]
Thanks Ricky! Here’s some instructions I received from Dave Grove, many moons ago… They worked for me then, but I need to do it again. When I ordered from Fatsco, there were two different sizes; not knowing which to order, I ordered them both. They are safe in an envelope, waiting for you to come visit some time and install for me. I’m all set in the refreshment department.
