Cannot get tranny out of neutral

[Faulkner]

Well, it’s been 17 years since I followed these instructions - but, at the time, they worked for me. My memory has faded, but perhaps this will make sense to you with the pan off:

@Dave Grove

From: Dave Grove Grove Automotive <groveautomotive@ka.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2003 1:08 PM
To: Dan Morton <morton@RAD.UPENN.EDU>
Subject: Re: Re: [FWDLK] Leaks 'R Us

Hello Dan.
That “shaft” is the actual shift cable. It is connected to the valve body inside the trans.
It is much easier to describe how to disconnect it than to actually do it (IMHO anyway), but it will help to know what you are dealing with. What retains the cable to the valve body is a “hairpin clip”. To disengage this clip, you need only to “move” the bottom of the “straight” side of it to one side. You can do this with an ice pick or something similiar. Reach into the hole with your pick (or whatever) and “feel around” on the bottom side of the cable, - you should be able to find the bottom part of the clip.
Move to one side and attempt to remove the cable (just pull on it).
Eventually, - it will come out.
Another approach you may consider is to remove the trans pan. This will allow you to actually “see” what you are doing and make things a lot easier.
I would recommend this in your case for another reason, - when it comes time to re-install & adjust the shaft cable, - you will need to be able to see what’s going on. If your service manual does not tell you how to remove the cable, - I doubt seriously if it will tell you how to adjust it.
Besides, - the “adjustment” procedure is so “complicated” (to me anyway), that I always just remove the pan to begin with and be done with it. The only time I will NOT (remove the pan) is if no one has “touched” the adjuster wheel, the adjustment is correct at the moment, and I will not have to “move” the adjuster wheel in order to do whatever it is I’m going to do with the shift cable (I also “mark” where the wheel is before I remove the bolt).
Since I think you stated that the wheel has been moved (“rotated”), - you will probably have trouble getting the adjustment correct unless you do it the “simple” way (as in “look” at it), - and what you are “looking” for is that the “pointer” on the valve body piece (the one the cable snaps into) that contacts the neutral safety switch is perfectly centered on the switch when the “N” button is pushed. This point is changed by rotating the adjuster wheel on the cable casing. You probably noticed there are many holes for the bolt to go through, - this is so you can get the adjustment perfect.
'Course now you need to be looking for a pan gasket…

Regards,
DaveG.