OK, OK!! So maybe I’m convinced to pull the sucker out. I better get a lot more zip-lok bags to put pieces parts in…
Stefan, if I don’t get this put back together by Carlisle, you’ll have to deal with a bunch of angry Dutch people!! I am The World’s Slowest Auto Mechanic, doncha know.
Here’s a deal for you – send me the plastic piece (instead of making me come to get it), and I’ll write off the distributor shipping charges. Howzat?
Dan
I fabricated the top steel strip from strapping material and drilled holes to match the old strip. Then I replaced the old fasteners with new ones that had a similar clip and threaded “bolt” type attachment. Of course, it’s easier to get it all on with the dash out (which I did when I rewired the whole car). I had to search several auto parts stores to find a new fastener similar enough to work, but it came out quite good for an amateur like me. Ron
Ooops…sorry, Faulkner. Guess I wasn’t paying attention as I explained what I did for the TOP of the dash pad fasteners. I actually found some “similar” clips at a local auto parts store that only needed a little trimming to replace the old ones. Ron
You can do it Dan!
You already got this far + you got enough time before it needs to be done 
No deal Dan, I’ll pay the shipping for my items. The part goes out as soon as I have a little box.
Another tip: If you find somebody in your area who does “plastic coating” then I would go for that instead painting. It’s a lot more resistant very beautiful and not more expensive (for at least in Germnay) than painting.
Stefan
Yup – one clip is all I need, Roger.
…and for Matthew to put it all back together for me
Dan
I dunno, one cli[..what’s the postage gonna cost!?
I dunno but I do know it will be a lot cheaper to send the clip than to send Matthew over 
OK – so, I started feeling guilty today about neglecting Faulkner, after seeing all the hard work that Ron and Matthew are putting in on Chrissie. So back to the garage today…
I removed the ashtray this time, and now was able to get a good grip on the cigarette lighter housing. It was snug, but finally gave way – I removed the lighter, and the last piece of trim dropped off. The lighter element itself is disintegrated; anyone rebuild these, or make replacements? I don’t plan to take up smoking, but there’s all kinds of good stuff you can plug into a cigarette lighter.
It’s starting to get warm enough to paint, so I have to get my butt in gear and sand, clean, mask and paint the dash. I’m going to order a “Just Dashes” pad too – I’ve already got some special black plastic paint from Eastwood. (And Stefan sent me a black plastic steering column shroud in excellent condition – thanks again, Stefan.)
I got silver plastic paint too, to paint the Dodge Caravan bows that fit '59’s for the headliner. I’ve already removed the headliner panels; I’ll comment in the other thread about those headliner clips – not sure I’m getting it. But as far as getting the upper interior chrome rails off – it looks to me like I have to remove the track for the weatherstripping to get those off. Is that correct?
Now that I’ve got the clock out, I’m going to want to try Tom Fox’s trick for cleaning the points. But, how do you take it apart, Tom? I see little detents on the bezel – do I just pry those back to remove the cover, and extract the works from the front?
I’m pretty good when it comes to taking stuff apart. Now, if I can figure out how to put this all back together… I might even make it to Carlisle 
Dan
Hi Dan,
I dont recall the TomFox trick on clock point- cleaning, but you are correct in assuming you need to un-bend the crimps in the housing holding the bezel, but you must also un-do the nut in the rear center of the housing. Then the whole guts come out of the housing.
To clean points, use an emery fingernail file borrowed from your wife. Bench-test with 12V before re-assembly.
Its been many years since I dealt with the panelboard headliners in wagons and hardtops, so I cannot advise you there. I don’t think you have to take down the siderail moldings…
Lighter elements are not being reproduced, and I know of no modern replacement.
You may need to contact John Fowlie..
I may have something for you, but I would need to get up into the attic of the garage…not so easy these days
You say the element is “toast”. good news: you don’t need the element if all you want to do is plug in a device needing a power source.
Dan - I might be wrong but I think NAPA is still supplying lighter elements.
Dick.
I was rummaging around last night (looking for the headliner bow ends that Tom Fox gave me at Carlisle! Where did I put them, Matthew? ), and I found a decent lighter! Maybe Tom gave that to me too… 
Dan
Is that right? Do I have to drop the weatherstrip rails, to access the screws that hold these on?
Dan
That is correct, Dan and it would be a good time to replace the weatherstip if you haven’t already. Also the stainless roof rails are well caulked and will be stubborn to release. Just take your time so you don’t bend or damage the piece.
Tom
regarding the clock:
I think maybe Philippe (Imperial pages) has covered this topic. Use the link on forwardlook.net.
Tom - My windshield had a rock hit it dead center of the drivers vision. It had other problems, delamination and clouding so I decided to replace it. To get the windshield out they apparently had to take all the stainless off except the rear window trim. The outer roof rails were loaded with what looked like plumbers putty. My question is when those rails are put back on should the drain rail and the most inner part of the outer roof rail be packed with frest plumber putty. I bought from Eastwood strips of a pliable sealing compound. How did you do yours, any advice would be welcome.
Thanks,
Dick Koch
Dick, I used a clear silicone caulk just along the flat part between the screw holes and the outside edge, leaving the gutter part of the stainless freee flowing I felt this seal was enough to keep water from getting into the car, and I think the water would drain better without all that putty in the way.
Tom