Dan - There is a bezel at the base of the antenna that unscrews, then the antenna drops down thru the hole.
Dick.
Yeah. I take it, you mean a bezel on the underside of the fender, not the top side. There ain’t no bezel that can be unscrewed topside. Certainly, the bezel that’s flush with the curved surface of the fender, can’t be turned:
So back to my original question. How can I reach up there and turn that bezel to loosen the antenna? Without removing the fender, which is something I’m hoping to avoid? I’d rather destroy the antenna, then have to do that.
The grey lookin piece above the chrome curved piece unscrews. Soak it with PB Blaster, then using a crescent wrench or channel lock pliers on the flats work it back and forth until it loosens. The nut on the underside is used to regulate the height of it protruding thru the fender.
Dick
Aha! The plastic cap took a hit, I’m afraid, but that’s the only casualty. Once I screwed that off, the rest was easy - and the antenna dropped right out through the inspection plate.
Yes, the Sterling sisters drove by the Braille method - and once there was a front end collision, I was told, which accounts for the blue under the antenna grommet.
Thanks for the tip Dick! I’ll be putting a little something extra in your paycheck.
I want to make sure I get what I need from Gary, while the gettin’s good…
I noticed these in the catalog. My front seat is in the basement, I went and had a look - I don’t know what they are, or where they go. Does anyone have a picture? How many are needed?
…and while I’m at it! I’ll be ordering hose clamps. Speaking of hose clamps: As I look through posts, there seems to be a lot of confusion about which heater hose goes where (about seven times in posts, Matthew points out that hoses are connected incorrectly). And since my heater was shunted out, I presume because of a leak, my hose connections are a mess. So to clear the air - at least, for a 318 - here’s an attempt to set the record straight.
These are the heater hose ports:
- left thermostat port
- right thermostat port
- left heater core port
- right heater core port
- manifold port, rear of thermostat
- manifold port, front of thermostat
- left water pump port
8 ) right water pump port
Based on the size of the ports, it’s clear that 8 connects to 6. What are the other connections? I’m guessing 2 goes to 3, but who knows. If someone can point to a correct picture on the forum, that’s worth a thousand words!
First question as to part #299. They should be made of hard plastic and they are mounted on the bottom frame of the front seat back to keep the seat back from leaning to far back. If you want your seat back more upright ACE Harware has thick nylon washers that will work. I will leave the 2nd question for Matthew to answer.
Dick
Poking around on the Forum, I found this thread, that goes with these two pictures of Octie Ham’s car:
Before it went up for sale, from the Showcase
When it was for sale
And this thread, which goes with this picture:
So that clears things up a bit - I’ll have to find a better picture of the plumbing at the thermostat and water pump. But here’s my best guess:
left heater thermostat port - left heater core port
right heater thermostat port - left water pump port
right heater core port - rear manifold thermostat port
right water pump port - front manifold thermostat port
What do you say, Matthew?
I admit to being confused about this whole seat back stop thing. Maybe it was removed by the upholsterer who did the seats? They removed the ash trays from the seat backs… But, it looks to me that the side rails for the seat stop swivel inside a channel, that has a built-in stop. What else is needed to keep the seat back from swiveling further back?
I’m perplexed.
Answer to hose routing. Go to Dicks Convertible project page 18.
Me.
These pictures are of the 60/40 seats in my Convertible. The seat back stops are mounted with a screw top and bottom on the outside end of the seat. Looks like l need new ones. I checked the green SF with swivel seats and there are none. I had the seats re-upholstered and later added plastic covers so I’m not sure if the swivel seats head them. I will check Charlene tomorrow but it has new upholstery also.
Dick
Hmmm… I’ll have to feel around the upholstery to see if I can find what these screwed into, and if they are still there. I wonder what size that screw is.
There are 4 water hoses (not counting the 2 to th radiator).
All sides are when you stand in front of the car.
1: the small one that goes from the right side of the water pump to the intake manifold
2: the right side of the heater box goes to the water pump
3: the lower connector from the heater box goes to the left side of the heater control valve (so closest to the hood hinge
4: right side of the heater control valve goes to the front of the intake manifold
The hoses at the heater control valve should cross over as there is an inlet and an outlet
Thanks, Matthew. This time around, I’m going to get a molded bypass hose from Rock Auto - there was a flexible piece of hose between the water pump and thermostat before, and it flattened out where it bent.
I finished the rockers today, using a 6 foot, 1/2" piece of Schedule 40 PVC, glued to a PVC connector, and taped to my Harbor Freight shop vac. It really worked well, rattling the PVC as I went back and forth. You could tell when it picked up something too big to vacuum up, it would occlude the tubing and the vacuum whine would shift to a higher frequency. I’d pull it back out, remove the shard - lather, rinse, repeat.
I alternated between vacuum and blowing a couple of times, and ended up cleaning out a lot of detritus - both sides. Then, I bombed the hell out of the inner rocker with Eastwood frame coating, through the drain holes - and the same for the outer rocker, through the clip holes. Two cans worth - because, I always do what Dick tells me to do. I could tell it was coating well, by the spray that would come out holes to the left and the right of the hole where I was spraying.
Imported Idaho wasp nest from inside the rocker
Now, to do the insides of the door skins - and oh yeah, I forgot the trunk weatherstrip rail, and the deck lid lip that Dick warned me about. Then, on to detail the engine compartment. Spring paint job? It’s starting to look possible.
Wow! We have had our share of wasp nest this year..How they get into these places? Never ceases to amaze me. Ingenious cleaning tool, good thinking.
A chilly day in the Faulkner garage, so I finally hooked up the heater and turned it on…
…and within 15 minutes had to turn it off, it got to be too warm. Of course, it’s chilly, not cold - but I’m hopeful this means it will take the edge off during the winter months when I hope to do mechanicals. And when I paint the inner fenders! But first to finish up rustproofing - on to the doorskins.
Years ago - probably fourteen, when I still lived in Haddonfield, NJ - I had used Eastwood red rust encapsulator on the driver’s side door. It’s held up well, but I only did the bottom. This time, I’m scraping anything loose from the skin and painting or spraying everything I can reach. (The lithium grease is in the mail, Dick.)
The passenger side needs a lot more attention - everything is now scraped, ready for ospho and encapsulation:
I’m also removing the dried out weatherstripping as I go (I have replacement from Goers I bought years ago, and never installed).
Along the bottom, there’s this wire retainer - I guess to prevent sag? Have any of you reinstalled it when you replaced weatherstrip?
I took a wire wheel in a drill to the remnants of weatherstrip I couldn’t scrape off with a putty knife
Lots of rust on the lower edge of the passenger door. This will get the ospho/rust encapsulator treatment
Password works, keeping it. What’s with the lithium grease? Must be my age.