Guys (and Gals!) I managed to install the 413 and tranny combo in the Convertible today! Yeah!!!
Thanks for my son, Jack, who got out of Bed at Noon to help me! with his help it went a lot smoother! I use to be able to do this stuff myself…but not any more.
Well, I am installing the trans cooler lines from the tranny forward and do I route them between the motor mount and between the block or around the outside of the motor mount and around? I can’t seem to find any pictures of how this is routed. I have them right now between the motor mount and the block but it seems to far kicked over to the passenger side the two lines for the radiator hookup.
I have not installed the radiator support and trial fitted the radiator yet which would help to see if they are in the right area. The radiator is at my work garage for short term storage.
wish I felt qualified to respond on all this, but no way!
My car now has a 361. The cooler lines run up the driver’s side, alongside the engine (yes, on engine side of motor mount).
Then they take a 90 degree turn and head to the passenger side, where they 90 again and connect to the radiator.
Your car was originally a 318, correct? Mine was a 318. When I put the 361 in, the lower radiator connection ran smack into the oil filter.
So I think I had the radiator inlet moved. I remember I had to find the right “neck” (the outlet elbow which bolts to the engine up top) which would accept a rubber hose from radiator. I cannot remember if I had the cooler inlet/outlet connections moved.
Without looking at the Parts Book, I think you may need a 361/383 radiator, or need to have your radiator modified.
thanks Roger! The big question was just the routing part. I had put them inboard of the motor mount on the drives side and just wanted to make sure.
The lines are the original 1960 413 tranny lines and my radiatior came from a 413 Chysler too. The end where the lines attach to the radiator are little out of whack and are not 90 degrees now, but when I get to the point this week of dropping in the radiator to get the final position and then “tweak” them into the right spot with the correct 90 bends and such.
The reason I had to get a different “neck” at the top of the engine was to clear the a/c compressor. I don’t believe I had the cooler line connections relocated.
If You need some help? I live only about 4 to 5 miles from you. I also have some really nice steel line bending tools you are welcome to. As well some 90 5/16 brass flair connect fittings.
Thanks Rick, I may take you up on that! I think all will work out once i trial fit the Radiator to see where the lower trannsmission cooler lines line up. Some tweaking might be required!
Question to Roger:
Does that mean you’re still driving wiht a 318 radiator in your car? Don’t you have problems with overheating or loosing water thru the radiator cap?
Stefan!
Long time no hear.
To be perfectly honest, I no longer remember what radiator is in the car. I imagine the 318 radiator was as bad as everything else when I received the car.
Maybe I switched to a 361 radiator, maybe had some tanks and had a triple-core installed…I simply don’t remember (and did not keep notes!)
The car runs okay…the temperature needle usually sits at 65-70%. It ran hot on its debut trip in 2004, spitting water out of the cap when I stopped…but on my last long trip in June 2010, the cooling system gave me no problems.
Hey Roger and John,
I think 1832672 (looking at the picture) is the 361 radiator. I wish I had my parts manual with me to confirm. I ended up recoring a 1832693 A/C / HD 3 row for maximum cooling since I’ll have A/C and my cam is a little rough. I’ll double check when I get home. John Q, I think you may have the ability to use the '60 radiator. I would use that if possible and if it doesn’t fit, one from a '59 Imperial or Chrysler with A/C. They had 3 rows from the get go. As you already know Big Block Mopars always run warm and the 318 two barrell/2 radiator isn’t going to cut it. My 318 would run too warm for my tastes with it. Now you can get the radiator re-cored to a three row by stretching the top tank. You could go to four row but the 3 row cores out there now have wider cooling passages and allow better cooling than the smaller passege 4 row. I was charger $400 for this custom mod but it looks completely stock. Also recommend running a thermal clutch fan as well. Frees up about 25 ponies and it is more pleasing to the ears on a long trip. Let me know if you have any questions.
Take Care,
Frank
Frank, I went out and looked at the radiatior I have on my 1960 413 RB engine and the cast Iron TF and it is a 3 row already (had it pressure tested previously) and has the part number of #1903356. I believe this came from the same 60 New Yorker as my Drive train came from. I checked in my 59 Plymouth parts manual and it jumps right over this part number.So it could be the one they used in the 60 New Yoker originaly
I had three FL radiators in my stash in the garage to choose from and this one was the only 3 core unit and it is slightly larger then the one that came with my car (which had the tanks rotted out) The mounting holes are a wider pattern then the original radiator, so I made some small brackets to adapt to the orignial pattern without adding more holes to the radiator support. The 60’ 413 came with a 7 blade fan without the Viscous thermal Clutch fan, but I have a 67 5 bladed Viscous clutch fan that I could use or switch the fan clutch over to the 7 blade version. This makes sense that it have the 7 blade version since the 60 New Yorker had air on it too!
So I should be set on the cooling part wichever version I end up with.
PS I did have to run one of the trans cooler line outboard of the motor mount and it lined up perfectly with the connections at the bottom of the radiator. Go figure!
Yes, long time no hear Roger. I was a also a little busy during the last months.
I just asked because, as you know, I’ve changed my 318 against a 361 and when I tried to install the 318 radiator, the lower water intake ra straight into the oil filter. So I had to move it a little to the outside. But now I face the problem, that on hot summer days I can’t drive the car for more than half an hour. As the 361 is a high compression engine it produces more heat than the 318 low compression engine. The 318 – 2 row radiator dos not cool the water enough and therefore the pressure in the water system rises until it overcomes the safety valve in the radiator cap and the water drains thru the tube. During this half an hour the temperature gage shows a perfect water temperature, but once the water level is below the upper outlet, the water pump cannot pull anymore water and then from one minute to the other the gage goes up to the red dot.
My doubt is simply: How many rows does a stock 361 radiator with AC have? Is it 3 or 4 rows? Frank said 3 rows.
Here from the Parts Book is the radiator listing and application. radiators.PDF (2 MB)
-My apologies for doing this as a PDF file which must be “saved” first in order to view. I’ll change this if someone tells me how!-
You have the same radiator TANKS as I have, Stefan. I will have to determine if I had those tanks put on a larger core.
The Parts Book says the stock 1832 691 should suffice for your 361.
(My a/c is not hooked up, so there’s no added heat).
Does your car have functional a/c, or just the 361 w/ Torqueflite?
I remember buying a new radiator pressure cap.
It’s possible I took the thermostat out of the car.
(I can see the benefits of keeping good records! )
Just to chime in here - The radiator that came with my factory 318 A/C '59 is 1832 693. After putting hole in that one I replaced it with #1832 672 from my 318 non A/C parts car. I have no problem with over heating either because my A/C is non-functioning. I guess I’ll hang onto that 1832 693 in case I get my A/C together.
The 318 radiator should be enough - that’s what I thought, but my engine is as good as new and due to oversize pistons and reworked heads and deck there is a higher compression ratio. I have between 10.5:1 and 11:1 and that appears to produce just enough heat to lift the safety valve. That happens only when the outside temperature is over 70º - and we had the last 2 month over 90º here. Below 65º I don’t have no problems.
I opened the radiator cap and tried to count the rows…it appears it is a 2-row radiator, with 7(!) lb. cap. Specs call for a 14 lb cap. Go figure.
Very difficult to see, but it LOOKS like I had the lower radiator connection moved to the drivers side, to clear the 361 oil filter.
The last long trip I took was to Eastern Washington, and it was 85 degrees over there.
Stefan, could your cooling system have an obstruction, or faulty thermostat?
No, everything is brand new. I even bought a second radiator cap to double check it. I talked to a friend a couple of days ago and he told me to go for a bigger radiator (buy one or add a row to the one I have now) and the problem will be solved. I guess that’s what I will do in the near future.
Besides: It’s easy if you want to find out if you have a 2 or 3 row radiator. Just take a flash light, look under your hood and count the rows of the water passages. See the picture. Red = first row, green = second row and if there is another row behind it…., but you probably have only two rows.
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