Roger, I will tell you what I know about the B and RB foil and fiberglass pad. The early B engines have a couple of problems. air passing under the manifold lost a lot of heat duriong cold weather driving conditions. The pad retains heat under the manifold, and keeps undesireable things from cooking under there. cast iron transfers heat slowly as compaired to the aluminum intake manifolds. Second,the early intake gasket or turkey pan would crack at the corners and leak some oil making a mess. the pad absorbs some of the engins natural harmonic vibrations reducing the pan cracking. The turkey pan or intake gaskets were reengineered and had some lines embossed into them also reducing this cracking and oil leakage problem.
thank you for your answers, RickyM. You’ve backed up my beliefs that the crossover is primarily for pre-heating fuel.
Well, TWSAM should have been done by now – but I ran into a snag, removing the oil pan drain plug. I just couldn’t shake the sucker lose… And it was tough crawling under the car. I ended up buying a monster adjustable wrench, and jacking the front end of the car in the air (Dick, I could have used your lift right about now). After bashing my knuckles and sharing profanity with no one – why is that sucker so tight? – it finally came loose.
What?! No washer?!!
Maybe that’s why it was so tight – to keep it from leaking, because the guy who last did the oil change (and who put my intake manifold on, BTW) didn’t put one back on. Hmmm… I’m having second thoughts about going back there again.
So I bought a 22mm copper grommet – closest I could find at Pep Boys – and snugged the plug back up after draining. Poured 4 quarts of Quaker State into the block, and I’m not seeing any leaks; I guess I’m OK.
I did see some tiny antifreeze droplets in the drained oil, though. It was a good idea to chase the antifreeze with oil – I’ll be keeping a close watch, and change the oil again if I see any antifreeze on the dipstick.
It’s over 90F in Philly, though, and even hotter in the garage. I’m ready to call it quits for the day. Maybe if it cools down, I’ll check the torque again and touch up the manifold paint – but enough for now.
Dan
All back together! Not that I’m not dripping in sweat… But all the hoses are reconnected, the carb and distributor locked down, the manifold paint touched up. Ready to fire up some night this week!
Remarkable, though, that in the week’s time of just sitting there, many of the bolts needed retorqueing. If these composite gaskets don’t leak – I will sing their praises! But they do require attention – and I will give it to them, until we’re all burned in.
Dan
I fired up Faulkner tonight – let the 318 get good and warm, and then let it cool down. Ran smooth as silk! Best part…
…no leaks! And, not the least sign of antifreeze on the dipstick.
Now, to torque-test the bolts again this weekend, and take Faulkner out for a road test; check the bolts one more time, and we’ll be road worthy! Thanks, Ed Eckerson, for your brilliant suggestions.
Dan
It’s sweltering here in Philly, and Faulkner got nice and warmed up, cruising the environs in University City.
…and with no leaks!
Thus ends the saga.
I hope!
Dan
with all the intake-related work, Dan, did you never have to deal with the acceleration pump?
Did that “stumble” go away?
Nope, still there, Roger. I did buy the gasket kit and I have the pump; trying to decide if I should replace myself, or get the carb guy to replace the bushings where I occasionally leak fuel, and replace the pump at the same time.
Dan
…a winter project, perhaps