Hi Guys,
Is someone able to post a pic of the top section of a power brake set up please?
I am in the process of setting mine up but don’t have the lever section that is mentioned in the parts manual and may need to make it if possible, not sure what it looks like? better still if someone has the pedal that I need please let me know.
I have a manual car so I am not sure whether this makes a difference with the type of pedal used?
any info on this topic would be greatly appreciated .
Thanks
Daniel - To see them side by side go to the Forum “See my ride” click on Dick’s 59 Red and white Restoration then click on page 4. If you use the power brake setup you have to have the Adjustable pushrod that goes into the master cylinder also. You can’t use the manual brake pedal assy with power brakes.
Dick.
Sorry - It’s “Show Your Ride”.
Dick.
Thanks Dick,
I checked out the photo and see the difference,
I do have one of the push rods that you mentioned with the adjustment, but now to either find a pedal or have to make something?
preferably find the correct part as the pin centers and holes etc are obviously critical.
Cheers
Look in the 57, 58 Service manuel or the red 59 supplement for power brake adjustments. It’s all in there, You might try Big M a member of the site for a complete assy.
Dick.
I recently replaced my non-power brake pedal assembly and purchased the whole set up from John Fowlie at Big M. Also included was the vacuum reserve tank and a rebuildable booster which I wound up not using.
Thanks Steve, I think I will send John a PM,
I think that I have all that is needed apart from the pedal? I have the vac tank with non return valve, master cylinder push rod (Adj), bellows with mounting plate…Hmmm think thats it? Am I missing anything else 
Dan - The rubber brake pedal for power brakes has the words “Power Brakes” on the pedal but either one will fit. Right now I’m using the regular one until I can find the right one.
Daniel,
The top of your pedal should be like the unit shown in picture. Without the power brake lever control and adjuster I am not sure how to make your unit work.
Daniel - I don’t know what RickyMopar means by “power brake lever and adjuster” but I fired up my power brakes this week and it worked straightaway, I had to install the inner fender to mount the tank on, the booster (canister type) I got on ebay and had no idea if it would work or not, the pedal assy is like the one pictured above, I have the adjustable push rod and the two chamber master cylinder because I have the AAJ front disc brakes. I bench bled the master cylinder and put a vacuum pump on the wheel cylinders and got fluid on all except the right rear. Took the bleed valve out, cleared the hole, stuck a piece of wire into the cylinder and walla, I got brake fluid. Took the car out on the road using a plastic milk crate as a seat and the brakes worked perfectly. I only hope they continue to do so. I took a corner a little to fast and damn near went flying out the door opening. Gotta watch that stuff. I got my vacuum from the rear of the front carburetor. The Air conditioning/heater vacuum comes from a fitting on the manifold.
Much to my delight after hooking up the new AC/heater switch and making sure all hoses were in the right place I tried the pushbuttons on the dash, lo and behold, all the doors worked, I almost passed out, that was the one thing I feared most.
Finished resanding the body today and hope to paint it again next week, then I can start on the fenders, doors, hood and rear deck.
Dick.
Power brake lever adjuster. Please note; The bolt head just left of center in the photo submitted earlier, the bolt head with a small arrow on it. This is the boost adjustment that controls the position of the thin metal piece with the curved end, that controls the vacuum control button between the booster assist forks. I wish they had these adjustments on today’s vehicles.
Dick, the adjusting Cam/bolt is better seen on the main 57/58 Service manual on page 48. This cam, according to the manual, allows for you to adjust the assisted power brake effort in your braking. It is just a little fine tuning that can be done if needed to decrease or increase the power assist application.
It is the bolt/cam in the oval window of the power brake frame assembly int he first picture of that page, fig, 24. Further discussion of this adjustment is on page 55, 2 column, under item 2 of the Pedal adjustment vebiage. I wish I can scan it but my scanner is on the fritz!
Now, my Hockey Game is back on TV so off to watch the Avs play Dallas, period 2… 
John Q.
I kinda thought that’s the adjustment you all were talking about but I wasn’t sure. I did see how to do it in the 57/58 manuel but I decided to take a chance and not mess with the adjustment on the Assy I had. Turned out to be a good choice. Brakes work pretty good. Speaking of Games how about Dem LSU Tigers from da Who Dat Nation knocking off Alabama. What a weekend of College Football with all those outrageous scores.
Dick.
I’m with you Dick. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. But some day when i’m feelin real flexible i might try a few degrees cw? Mine works pretty good now in comparison. I don’t have to anticipate speed reductions miles in advance.
Just my thoughts and not my manifesto… Have you seen ever seen a better booster system that allows you to use decades newer master cylinders and almost replace the entire brake system and still work perfectly?
Chrysler engineering was great, the self energizing center plane brake was better than anything else out there. If your Plymouth didn’t stop correctly you had bad parts or didn’t read the service manual. If I am wrong ask any real mechanic that had to work brake systems for a living.
Chrysler offered self energizing disc brakes in the early fifties and few units were sold being owners were ignorant of the great benefits of these brakes.
Chrysler had over 60 modifications to the patents before the released the brakes to the public.
I own a Chrysler product now that an ignorant owner opted for drum brakes over standard disc front brakes! that of course I have upgraded for my safety.
I have no problem with owners up grading their brake systems, if they do their homework, the lives they save might be ours!
Hi All,
Thanks for the replies on this topic, I’m nearly there as I got a pedal with lever set up from fellow member Deano here in Aus and it is the same as the one pictured by Ricky.
I have a question in with John F awaiting reply to see if the pedals are the same for a manual car as they are for an auto?
The offset (bends in the pedal) appear slightly different but maybe I can make it work, the lever set up is spot on and it fits into the pedal box like its supposed too.
My parts manual lists the pedal that I need as 1675 249 (w/std trans w/power brakes). The only numbers that I can see stamped on the pedal with lever is 270 and 273 on the lever section, my original pedal for non power brakes had the number 233 stamped on it but I don’t think these numbers relate to the parts book?
Dick,
good to here the progress on your car, lucky that you didn’t come to grief test driving sitting on a milk crate!
maybe you should have used a metal paint thinners drum!! …everybody knows that plastic is a foreign to our cars! 
You’re right Ricky about the power brake booster, but I was amazed at how poorly the dual wheel cylinder set up worked for the engineering that must have gone into it. Of course maybe I assembled it wrong. I always thought just bigger /wider drums and shoes would have accomplished more. I know they offered a better system for those in the know. The disk conversion for me was a huge improvement!!
Well I agree, bigger is better in brakes. It is also nice to be able to find new and serviceable brake parts in abundance. A funny thing I see the Chevrolet Colorado pick up truck uses center plane brakes on the rear axle. Why maybe because they still work in both directions just like the rear brakes on these old Plymouths.
P.S. on center plane brakes Remember totally back off the brake adjustment before you bleed your brakes. otherwise you trap air in the wheel cylinders especially the angled front wheel cylinders.
Thanks Rick, Now that I know you are an expert on brake bleeding I will invite you over to help in the near future on my car!
John Q.
No Problem, will be there. Just have plenty of DOT3 and some clean rags.
