Guy, don’t know if you have the 59 Plymouth supplement or not but here is a PDF of the front suspension system.Just want to make sure we are talking the Lower Control Arm (LCA) shaft and nut as it goes thru the engine cross support. There is also the front Lower Control Arm stabliliser bar that goes to the outer end of the LCA near the lower ball joint and then goes forward towards the center of the front radiator support at an angle. This bar keeps the LCA from moving fore and aft and only allows up and down movement of the LCA.
Also shown is a picture of Ed Erickersons (stunning) 59 Plymouth that shows both of these mounting areas. The LCA shaft is secured with a square washer and then a lock washer and the special Castellated nut. And then a cotter pin is inserted in beween the raised section and the lower part of that special nut thru the LCA shaft. There is a small hole in that LCA shaft. Though I have seen some LCA shafts without this hole. Then the lock washer and nut would be the only way to secure the shaft. Is there a thru hole in your shaft of the Tortion bar/LCA shaft?
Now the other front stablizer strut rod is bolted to the LCA with two bolts and then is inserted (bushing is in place inside the front cross support) thru the front support and is then has a concave larger washer cap that captures the front of the bushing. A large Acorn nut is then threaded on (SAE fine theads here).
Note: Ed car has inadvertently but these large concave washer bushings on wrong, They should face (the concave part) should be facing the rear of the car cupping the strut rod bushing. 59-Part-1_Section-1_Front_Suspension.pdf (1.4 MB)
I am as frustrated as you that no conclusive reply has been posted (sorry, John).
I will try to post a scan of the Parts Book, which seems to imply that there is no cotter pin used onthat particular nut. Ply front suspension.PDF (1.35 MB)
I rebuilt my front end 3 months ago along with the lower bushings. Paint a line across the end of the bushing shaft in line with the cotter pin so when you torque the nut you know where to line it up. Bend the cotter pin in the shape of a banana, Use a long pair of needle nose pliers and insert it. John was on the right track.
Thanks for the pdf’s. The shaft in question is the one outlined in red, thanks Roger. There was a split pin in it when taken apart so I guess we’ll persevere. Not sure about the " banana" analogy cos we only get straight ones in the UK - are they the rejects ?
American slang when you peel the bananna skin back it is splayed back against itself.
So when you insert the Cotter pin, you will take the two ends and peel them back 180degrees back onto the nut kepping the Cotter pin from working it self out of its placement.
Actually, John, here’s what I was thinking; Give a new, un-splayed cotter pin a bit of a curve so that it resembles a crescent (or “banana”), this might allow the installer to more easily “thread” the pin thru the hole in a confined space. See Indian301’s post. He said it best. I know there are heavy duty sewing needles like this. And yes, the pin needs to be bent back on itself once it gets installed.
I came in on this questiona little late… The split pin should have been installed before the bushing was pressed into the lower pivot. not to worry if you can do your bent pin, it would be just fine. Or you could dab on a little green penetrating Locktite.
Rickey is right. after reading the shop manual it clearly states that the lower control arm bushing is replaced by pushing the entire shaft assy that goes thru the frame crossmember from the torshion bar side (hex) of the lower control arm using a hydraulic press. cut a piece of galvanized pipe or buy a pipe nipple to fit over the nut and on the washer in the hole and the whole assembly comes out including the bushing. Then you remove the cotter pin, back off the nut and remove the bushing. Install the new busing on the shaft, the washer, and torque the nut as per the manual, then insert the cotter pin. Make sure your pipe is long enough to cover the long shaft and press the whole assembly into the lower control arm, be sure the pipe rests on the flange of the bushing and the flange seats properly other wise you push the shaft to far. See the diagrams in the manual. No more bending and trying to thread the cotter pin in that small space without going insane. Good luck.
Dick.
I just finished replacing upper and lower bushings, ball joints, idler arm bushing and strut bushings in the convert. I pray that they last in my other cars until I’m gone. Believe me it’s no fun, it’s the hardest thing I’ve had to do yet.
Dick.
Thanks for the information Dick. Car is in a local garage as I don’t have the space to work on it at home. One side is rebuilt but progress has been slow as they are doing the work around their regular garage business. Once the engine was out and suspension stripped down we found sections of the front chassis that required repair. Anyway that’s all done. Engine is back together and lots of new paint to engine, firewall, inner fenders( we call them wings in the UK). Hope to get it finished in the next couple of months. I’ll post pictures when it’s done (if I can work out how to do that). Regards
