Now the engine is out of the Fury we can get a better look at some of the suspension components and things are looking worn. I’ve had the car over 10 years and nothing has been replaced in that time. I figured that now is as good a time as ever to sort it. I 've read recent topics concerning front end kits and the advice regarding Raybestos from “rickymopar”. My question to all the experienced Fury types - is there anything in particular that I should be looking for ? Living in the UK means, if possible, I’d like to get the parts shipped in one go. The only thing I had noticed was that the suspension squeaks when going over uneven ground (torsion bars ?). Many thanks Guy
Well, it’s not the torsion bars themselves that can squeak, but the many and varied bushings of the suspension. Do you have a Shop Manual?
There are steering bushings and then there are suspension bushings. Take your car to a qualified repair shop where it can be put on a lift, then you and the mechanic can identify which parts are worn out.
Typically the steering parts wear out first. Idler arms, upper and lower control arm bushings, center links. As i recall there is no way to lubricate these parts, so they wear out. Planned obsolescence! Okay, just looked at the parts Book, steering parts ARE greaseable! 
Visual inspection of the bushings can help to eliminate suspect parts, bushing with missing rubber and off center should be replaced anyway. The early ball joints did require a good chassis lube grease. I have found ball joints to be good and tight and just needed good lube to eliminate squeeking/popping noises
Maybe it was the steering components which didn’t come with grease nipples… I can’t remember. I didn’t spend much time under my car, greasing any connections, as Matthew will testify! 
Going from memory, the front suspension involves torsion bars which dampen the motion of the “A” arms. The “A” arms are connected to the frame with upper and lower bushings. The upper bushings usually wear out first. There may be grease fittings at these points.
The car is already in the garage (repair shop). I’ll call in tomorrow and go through the ball joints/bushings with the mechanic. Just didn’t want to miss anything if the 59 had any known problem areas withing the steering/suspension. Thanks for the feedback.
According to the Parts Book, the upper and lower balljoints have grease fittings. Everything else is rubber bushings.
Lift the front end so the front tires clear the ground, then grab the top of the tires one at a time and try to shake them. There should be no wiggle.
Each torsion bar connects to lower control arm with a bushing, these can squeak.
I don’t know of any particular weak point in suspension. Just check everything.
I ordered balljoints and more using Andy Bernbaum’s catalog. I kept the parts on the shelf for over a year, until I was ready to use them. It was only then that I discovered I had the wrong balljoints…there are screw-in balljoints and press-in ones.
My car had to stay on the lift for a few more days until my mechanic found the correct ones. Of course I couldn’t return the wrong ones to Bernbaum because too much time had elapsed! I finally sold them for a fraction of my cost.
Sound advice, thanks Roger. Interesting point about the ball joints. I’ll pay particular attention when inspecting the car.
PS, you need a special socket (Snap on. Matcco etc.)for the ball joint for removal and re-installing! It has a squared side and a round side on the interior of the socket to fit over the top of the ball joint to screw it on the Upper control arm,
I bought mine on ebay for around $40 dollars. I will check to see if these still for sale.
Here they are!!
I have to see which size is for our 59’s. I bought both of them previously since I have a later B and E body Mopar that the larger one would work on.
Back in a few…
John Q.
You are totally right there, John! He needs to 1) determine IF he needs balljoints, 2) determine WHICH kind he has, and if necessary, 3) locate the appropriate socket tool for removal/installation. Since he is in England, he needs to get this right the first time, or risk a massive headache! If he determines he needs upper and lower balljoints, is that socket required to deal with both upper and lower?
As I recall, my car needed the screw-in type. How about yours, John?
Roger (and Guy) I checked and it is the smaller of the two ball joint sockets 1.915" you need. Both upper and lower ball joints are screwed in and use the same socket.
I had to pre-heat the old ball joints thread area on the upper and lower control arms with a propane torch and then hit it wih penetrating oil, Let sit over night and then re-heat again, hit with pentrating oil the second time…And then took a large breaker bar and gave a big tug.
Slowly the started to unscew. If you have a impact gun this will help too. My compressor is to small to unscrew it due to the rust adhesions but was fine screwing back in the new ones with no rust on the the thread area. Use some machine oil on the threads when re-installing. As long as you have the upper control arm off, press in new upper bushings.
On my lowers, they visually checked fine so I did not back off the Torsion Bar to take them off to press in a new LCA bushing. Probably should have but I get lazy late at night…
John Q.
Great report, John, you have covered all the important details!
I thought I might add some trade secrets to this portion of ‘ball joint removal from the control arms.’ By all means use a good penetrating oil, when heating with moderation add a little Bee’s wax. When cooling the wax will be pulled into the threaded portion, making the removal alot easier, less likely to gall. Adding a little Anti-seize to the threaded portion before installation can really help, especially if you cross thread accidentally and require a new restart.
All good advice and gratefully received. Got the shopping list together and I can’t get it all from Rock Auto. Would really like to buy from one source to keep shipping costs down.I need tie rods (inner and outer). Any recommendations based on personal experience ?
One other note on the ball joints..if you are going to remove your A arms for bushings, be sure to remove your ball joints before you remove the A arms! There would be no way to hold the A-arms with the massive torque it takes to remove the old ball joints! I had to use a big 3/4" breaker bar on mine and pull for all I was worth. Make sure you wear big gloves and have nothing sharp behind you in case the socket slips. That happened to me and fortunately I didn’t get hurt. If you are up for it, and you already have the engine out, I would replace all the ball joints and all the A arm rubber bushings and be done with it even if it costs an extra $100 or so for ball joints. The labor is the killer and you sure don’t want to take it apart twice! I did my entire front end and it is a pleasure to drive. I even had it up to 110 mph at a local track and I am still here to talk about it 
Guy - www.kanter.com will probably have it all in a kit. Make sure you get thier catalog.
Dick.
Looking for another trade secret - The bushing in the lower control arm has been replaced and the shaft refitted and the castellated nut which is in the recess that takes the torsion bar requires a split pin. Anybody got any idea how I get it in there ?
I would have to check the service manual on the toruqe rating of that Lower Control Arm (LCA) Nut, but after you do torque it down, I then would make sure the Castellated nut exposes the hole in which the Cotter pin would fit in it by inserting it with a pair of Needle nose pliers. And then bending down in opposite directions the open end sides of the cotter pin. This would keep the pin from falling out and the Castellated nut from loosening ever.
You may have to loose the nut on the Lower Controls Arm slightly after torquing it down to gain access to the Cotter pin hole insert the Cotter pin. Make sure you do have the large washer installed on the LCA shaft before putting on the nut.
Hope this is the answer you were looking for…
John Q.
I am glad you responded to this one, John. While I never performed the repairs he is talking about, I remember seeing the recessed nut with cotter pin, and it’s seems only logical that the slots need to be lined up with the hole so the cotter pin can be inserted, using a pair of long, needle-nosed pliers
Is there a trick to getting the pin down there ? The length of pin required to go through the stub and bend back on itself is too long to be offered square to the hole in the space available so is proving difficult to get in.
Guy, I personally don’t have a solution for your problem. Can a person put a slight curve in the cotter pin (make it curved like a banana) prior to feeding it into the hole using needle-nosed pliers? The pin only needs to be a bit longer than the diameter of the nut, so that you have SOMETHING to bend back.
If it can’t be negotiated, all I can suggest is a a piece of wire… 