Dan,
I have piles of used grills, so if you are unable to get a good one from E-bay, let me know, and I’ll see if I have a super nice one.
—John
Dick, I got all of those emails, thanks! And I bought the NOS base molding from the link you sent me. The NOS grilles are phenomenally expensive, though - since I’m getting parts reanodized, a decent used one will do. There is one on eBay that might be worth the price, but I was holding off to hear from Jim Hamsher or John Fowlie.
That’s music to my ears, John! I’d much rather deal with someone I know and trust. Pick me out a super nice one (passenger side) and we will take it from there. Thanks!
Just a suggestion, to have one re-anodized they have to take it apart, and de-anodize it and
its prohibitably expensive. First i would try my tooghbrush trick with mag cleaner. Get a good one from John. Then try it.
Dick
Dick, I’ll try it - but, I think Ron said he sent his out (along with a bunch of other aluminum parts). They dipped them somehow to strip the anodizing, then reanodized - without taking them apart. I dunno, maybe it’s a Dutch thing? 
Matthew, can you comment?
I can say that I spot tested some Flitz polish on the gas flap aluminum, and the results were pretty good. I forget where I saw them recommended for aluminum, and I bought some. I will give it a try on the driver’s side grille from Faulkner. Hey, I’ve got lotsa toothbrushes!
Score! John has a passenger grille piece with no dings or scratches, just needs cleaning and polishing - and a great price. Once again, Big M proves it is the go-to place for MoPar enthusiasts.
Dick, the trim pieces I waylaid is boxed up, and will be winging its way to Palm Beach Gardens in the morning.
I did a little engine compartment detailing today…
The poor man’s bead blaster makes short cleanup of bolts
Wire-brushed, vacuumed, mineral spirits, wipe and spray. Forgot to take a pic after I painted the pulley black
Rockers look great! Like it had just been rebuilt
Oh, Yeah - It’s Got a Poly!!
Once red ('58 block), then silver, to be red again. All scraped and wiped down with mineral spirits
Like Matthew did 'em
I’m thinking this red has a little too much orange in it for me… I might revisit the color
Any advice about PermaTex’ing the water pump bolts?
I’ll be leaving the covers off until I am ready to start up the engine - I’ll put a little oil on the rocker parts before any serious cranking.
I picked up the VHT engine paint for the valve covers when Ron, Matthew and I visited the Eastwood store in Pottstown.
The reason the paint looks a little orange to me, is because…
Oh Noes! It’s Bowtie Orange!
I just happened to have a couple of cans of this – I think I’ll give it a try
Srlsly. I know the water pump gasket keeps water from leaking out from the pump chamber. But, the left and right bolts at mid-height don’t go through this chamber, and apparently go through the water jacket (or else antifreeze wouldn’t chase the bolts when I remove them). What’s to keep fluid from seeping along the length of the bolt shaft, and out under the bolt head?
PermaTex, or no? (Tap, tap…) Hey, is this mike on?
I have used this before on a few engines to seal the water pump bolts and header bolts that go in to the water jacket. its Loctite Head Bolt and Water Jacket Sealant 1158514
Thanks Will! Do you just put it on the threads, or also on the bolt shaft?
I just slime some on the threads. No need to over do it but enough to ensure a good seal in the threads. My hands are itching, its been MONTHS since I have gotten to work on a car 
but at least I can live vicariously through you and Faulkner 
Thanks Will. I ordered that goop from Amazon - four bucks cheaper, free shipping!
Dan, got the two stainless pieces.
Dick.
Yay! Do your magic, Doc!
John Fowlie to the rescue. Yet again!
…and a driver’s side outside door handle (mine has a small ding) is on its way! Thanks for everything you do, John!
You’re more than welcome, Dan!!
You did wonders on polishing the grill. Looks great!
Looks great from 10 feet, doesn’t it! I haven’t touched it yet, John - it’s a testimony to the condition of the part you sold me at such a reasonable price. Still needs cleaning, though!
I’d hoped to get a lot done today, but it was all I could do to finish the radiator core, and the bolt-on half of the battery shelf. Where I couldn’t use the “Poor Man’s Bead Blaster”, I used a drill with a wire brush. I’m happy with the results, though!!
Just getting started
Flip side
After cleanup, ospho, and banging out a dent
Oh yeah - a good dose of frame rustproofing on the innards
Lookin’ good
I applied 3M seam sealer to the pinholes in the battery tray support - you can see it here
Rust-proofed corrosion should be hidden by the battery tray
Looks great Dan! like the old saying restoration saying go’s " Paint it black and put it back". Nothing like a fresh coat of chassis black to keep the motivation high. Your battery shelf looks to be in great shape. I have had good luck in the past using POR 15 on the base metal with chassis black top coat on my battery trays, It gives it one extra layer of protection to the corrosion from the battery. Just don’t get POR 15 on your skin or you will be wearing it for a month 
I end up wearing everything that’s liquid, Will. Some solids, too 
I haven’t tried POR 15, but I’ve used gallons of Eastwood rust encapsulator. I wipe it down with Ospho (Dick swears by it), use a Yuengling Timer*, wipe it off and encapsulate. For the engine compartment, I’ve been using Rustoleum gloss black.
*Yuengling - the official timer of the '59 Plymouth Forum