Anyone got any info on fitting a big block?
I need more power and the 318 just does not make the grade, so has anyone done it and what were the problems that they came across?
What rear axle did they use? 
Any info would be great.
ur thinking about a BB w/ these gas prices!? try a cam, intake, carb if 318 is still a solid short block. i have a ‘weak’ chev 305 & with those it runs pretty good. had a friend in the car w/ me when i left a porche in my wake (and smoke- rings leak a little) 
. that’s w/ the stock heads. i spent like $150 on engine mods and $200 on the holley 600 carb. w/ a 200-4r overdrive it delivers 17 mpg highway. not too bad considering it’s a land yaught. --j
Hi Matty - I had a 4 bbl. AFB Carb. on my 318 Poly that was giving me similar problems. I rebuilt it twice to no avail so I replaced it with a New Carter 600 cfm Carb. with electric choke (the AFB is 450 cfm) Edelbrock will work as well. My engine runs so smooth now I really have to listen hard to hear it. If I’m not mistaken the 318 poly has solid lifters??. Anyway it is very strong with excellent excelleration, I got it to a 100 MPH and chickened out but it was still pulling very strong. I had a similar problem with hesitation as you, there are three positions to adjust the accelerator pump. try each position and see if it helps along with setting your points and timing the engine. I highly recommend you go with the Pertronix ignition. I only hear good things about the system, even our Site Guru Dan Morton just installed it in his car. You can ask him. I plan on installing them in my car next week. If you have a 2 bbl. carb. get a 4 bbl. manifold, install a dual exhaust system and you will not regret it. Good Luck.
Dick.
Well, truth be told, I didn’t install it… 
But, I had it installed! 
And the engine purrs like a kitten.
Doesn’t hurt, that the engine was rebuilt at the same time! 
But I’m really glad I got the Petronix. The d*mn thing just works, and I’m tired of fooling with points. I mean, really, why bother?
Dan
Well i know fuel is is expensive that said there is no substitute for the grin factor, i like drag racing and am used to cutting a 12 second quater so i really want to fit a big block and sure grip or a restroked smallblock.
Here in the uk you dont see a lot of 50s stuff roaring up the quater mile, i tink it will be cool to see this car really moving what do you think?
i think it’s cool, but ur working with a pretty heavy car. the only think i would hate to see if it was damaged, but other than that, i say go for it! btw, i had to adjust the accel pump on my new holley to get desired performance. just 450 cfm? that’s pretty small, that’s the 2 brl, right? --j
Matty,
The 440 RB is the biggest Mopar block available, but it is possible to install it in the 1959 Plymouth. The engines are interchangeable with minor changes, but you also need the bell housing for the BB and stronger Torsion Bars.
If you have done this you’ll probably realise that you need a Sure Grip differential to get all that torque on the street.
If you want to go for sure contact Mike (safetymike), he is the specialist in RB engines.
Stefan
Besides: Welcome to the Poor Boys! (European Boys who have to pay twice)
Well thats great news, ive got my beedy eyes on a big block, who is this stefan, how can i contact him and which torsion bars will do the job? 
I am struggling to find any decent info on this swap on the net, anyone know were i can get some more info?
You have a pm…
Hey… One of you guys should tell Dan to put some of my newer pics of my engine that I have posted over on FL…
Cool, canwe have some more picks please
You can see more (and bigger) pics here Viewing a thread - More parts are here!
Seen em! Could do with some more detail so i can see whats what, but very nice photos all the same!
What do you want pics of?
Some detailed picks of problem areas if there are any?
- if you use a stock later model mount… The engine is really far forward.
- if you set the engine back where it probably should be, you have to cut the heater box to fit the valve covers… I chose option one.
Engine mounts… You have to make them…
Driveshaft will need made…
Pick your exhaust manifolds wisely… I tried to use my 77 ones first… that wasn’t happening… Had to use the 65 ones.
Ok this is were im at, i have the motor now and a box both items are from a mid 70s cordoba, i also have the rear axle from the same car body .
The axle looks like it may fit very easily, i have noticed that b body rear springs will mount with not too much bother i think?
My problem is parking brake?
Prop shaft?
I was going to use some sort of header on my engine, it does appear that the chassis could get in the way to some degree, all this is a way off yet as i need to get some funds together for the engine build but all information will help me one way or another.
what is ur problem w/ the parking brake? doesn’t the newer rearend have an integrated p/ brake? i will have to do the same conversion to mine, i don’t think it’s gonna be too hard, just fab up so mounts on the undercarriage for the cable to go and hook it up to the '59 handle. – not sure about the length of ur driveline but u probably will have to have one made. - what size is ur fuel line? if it is the common 5/16 u will want to upgrade to 3/8" to be able to fead that large motor. --j
I have no problem with any of this really i am just feeling around to get good advice as i have not tackled anything like this before. I do understand the project i just want a clear vision of the way forward, i want to improve the car not dammage it if you see what i mean?
I am building this as a street strip car so i want the car to handle as well as move.
Yes… do the parking brake on the rearend, although… if the trans is from a mid 70’s cordoba, you will have the parking pin built in, but you will have to make an adaptor to use the push buttons. There is a thread on how to do that on the forwardlook site. Otherwise, you will have to do a floor shifter. If you do that, it doesn’t much matter, because you will be able to use the park function of the trans. You will have to custom make a driveshaft. To save you a little money, get one from a car and have a new tube put in, or the existing tube shortened depending on what you have to do once you get it all together. K… Next questions?
Just another suggestion…
I was able to determine the driveshaft length from my car with a 1976 Volare 318 to the 1976 Volare 323 positraction rear and then search the yards/literature for a shaft that is already the correct length.
In my case a late 1960’s Road Runner Drive shaft was the perfect length and not too pricey.
On the emergency brake - it was suggested to me that I may need a dump truck cable for my car since most car emergency cables were too short. So I don’t have an Emergency Brake at this time.
Curt in Ellicott City, MD