Hi Everyone
Hope the post turkey coma has worn off.
So I got my 59 Suburban this summer…Here is were things are:
Brakes done…front disc and new 2 pot master brake cylinder.
Brake lines leaking …but almost done
Gas tank started leaking when getting the rear wheels off…so Gas tank welded and inside coated.
Fuel sending unit totally shot and rusted so had it rebuilt…
New rubber for fuel line…Car would not start…so
New fuel pump…Car starts first time no sweat
The latest problem however is electrical…no lights, no turn signals, no wipers…the horn works
Ideas anyone? Where do I start?
By the way it is 318 with 2 barrel no ac
Thanks
Jay
J
The Headlight switch is where some of those electrical lines lead to. At least the headlights and front and rear park/running lights. Proper grounding of the switch is needed too. But being installed in the dash frame should accomplish that. Switch can be bad but they are available on E Bay or even at your local parts store, (NAPA, Pep Boys etc)
PS, to remove the switch form the dash your have to reach around under the dash and depress a metal button that is on top of the switch that will allow the headlight shaft to come out of the housing. This has to be done before the bezel can be unscrewed off from the switch itself.
Horns can be the contact ring at the steering wheel is corroded,or as many of our cars have over time, the horns just don’t work! Lots of dust, mud and insect critters climb into the horns to foul them up. You can try any back up horn you or a car buddy friend might have (12 volt version) place it against the radiator support for grounding and have a friend hit the horn. That being said running a separate two wire leads from the battery will make the horn sound if that is the issue. A battery charger leads work well too! Spraying electrical solvent in the horn cavity has worked on occasion. They can be taken apart for cleaning.
Turn signals can be a bad switch in the steering column. That would mean taking off the steering wheel and hitting the area of the switch with a electronic spray contact solvent will some times un-gook the area. Otherwise it is a bad switch. New switch are available on E- Bay.
Wipers can be a bad switch or motor, Make sure that there is a power lead connected to the switch. Wiper switches have a 20 amp Circuit Breaker on then. Check that out or temporarily by-pass the CB and see if the wipers will then work, then it is the CB for sure. Do you have a single speed or variable speed wiper set up? Just make sure you get the right switch if you do have to replace it. Also, an E bay item that comes up a lot.
John has it right. You should first check your headlight switch. They are prone to corrosion when left un-used for a long time. problems with headlights alone might be the fault of the floor switch, which also gets messed up with corrosion, road salt from boots, and simple wire abrasion from repeated shoe rubbing.
If you need more assistance, please post.
Thanks Guys i appreciate the input.
I have been going over the wiring diagram for the suburban and peeked under the dash today…things look corroded
Will start this later this week…Brakes driving me nuts…line from the new mc to the rear axle 2 in too short…time to go to the store.
I will keep you up to date on how it goes and pictures as I get them
J
J - It’s best to sand & clean all contacts as best you can and coat with dialectic electrical grease to help prevent and further corrosion and to assure a good connection. Including bulbs and sockets.
Dick.
Jay, let us know how things progress and what was the answer to all your questions. Then we can give the next Forum member what we thought of and what you came up with in your issues.
Ok
So replaced the light switch. Got it on eBay .
Getting the old switch out was a problem. The rod for the switch wouldn’t come out even with pressing the pin on top…so took off the knob by unscrewing the hex screw, then got the unit unwired and used some break free on the rod. It was rusted in the center and stuck good so used a bench vice and got it free.
Hooked up the new unit an have front parking lights and rear lights but no head lights.
So…will test each light and replace the high beam switch as the next step.
So replaced the floor dimmer switch…no lights.
Checked for power to the headlights at the light plug in…none
So…started to check the new light switch out and started to move it around and got a flash of green instrument panel light.
Wiggled all the connections and found the yellow wire on the switch was almost broken off. By moving it the right way I get all the lights working…still no turn signals but that is next after I fix the yellow wire.
I appreciate everyone’s input and suggestions.
Tomorrow the wire and try to get the turn signals working…then the brake lines…again
Jaydogg - It sounds to me like you are on the right track, Most of the stuff I fix is by accident or I haven’t the slightest idea what I did to fix it. Don’t stop now!!!
Dick.
Thanks Dick
That seems to be the general concensus with me and my old cars…play with it enough and replace enough parts and eventually it starts to run.
Yeah all the lights work now…except the instrument gauge lights went out…Definately a short somewhere
Next step after work today is the wiper switch …manual tell you how to test it so will see if it is bad or the motor is
Sat for 30 years…wow. If the wires have gotten brittle, you will be chasing electrical problems forever. The classic Englishman of olden times (the 1950-1960’s) expected to tinker and fiddle with their cars…if you do it as a past-time!
New wiring harnesses, full or partial, are available for the '59 Plymouth. Maybe something to consider/save up for.
Nothing worse than a dash or under-hood fire!
Squirt Electronic solvent spray on the metal sliding part of the dimmer switch. May have to take it off the floor boards but undoing the bolt screws to get to the sliding part of the switch. The work it up and down to get it loosen up a bit and into the contact area. Worked for me.
Instrument panel lights could be the power to them came off the Headlight switch terminal, check that.
Brittle wires like Roger stated, will be an ongoing issue, make sure you have a fire extinguisher on board.
Yeah I was noticing the lack of pliability in the wires when moving things around yesterday . Im going to redo the interior first and figure I should probably do it right and redo the wiring harness…Who has those for sale? I looked on ebay and didnt see anything. Is the dash on the suburban welded on or does it just bolt on? I see a couple of bolts by the front doors but haven’t really looked under the rest of the dash real well.
Again appreciate the input…and the fire extinguisher is a good idea
Do this part first, If you take off the two a pillar vertical A pillar moldings off and then there is two horizontal garnish pieces near the base of the inner windshield (remove the screws and lift those parts out of the way. I would release the steering column support bolts to let the column drop down a bit. Gives you more room to clear the dash out.
It then will reveal the bolts/screws that hold the upper dash frame to the inner support area below the lower inner edge of the winshield. That will release it from the inner upper fire wall. Now it will just hang there pivoting on the two lower bolts/screws.
It is a tight fit coming on an off. The two bolts you noticed are the main pivot and support bolts. Don’t lose the small square anti-squeak pads when those bolts come out, which you don’t have to take them (bolts that is) all the way off, I left mine backed off so the dash did not fall down after I removed the upper dash bolts/screws mentioned below. It will later pivot on this spot
Disconnection the wiring connector points will help too so you don’t hang up due to the wires…
I think that is it, but if I forgot a step , the others will chime in for ya! Oh yeah, disconnect the battery first!!!
Thanks John,
I was hoping it bolted in. I already took out that pillar bolt but put it back in mostly so I dont loose the anti squeak pad.
Tested the windshield wiper switch per the manual…test light to bat neg and B post with pos bat to P post. Test light is supposed to go on and off with using the switch but only stays on. Next test with pos to R post supposed to do the same but only stays off so it looks like a new switch is in order.
Any recommendations on a wiring harness…make yourself, universal or custom made from one of the companies out there?
I used a modern Painless type (but not the brand) of new wiring harness with a fuseblock, wanted the extra safety to having fuses forevery circuit. Depends if you want to have it bone stock or not. I wrapped the modern wires with the factory type non-adhesive black vinyl to have it look factory and hide the circuit legends, For the most part it was easy to string out and land them, but I ran out of brains and had to have some help with the final under hood stuff. Like switching out to a 60’s 70’s Mopar alternator instead of a generator and going to Mopar Electronic ignition.
You seem pretty good on the electrical part if you can handle a multi-meter on the wiper motor so it should be good to go with you. There is a company that makes a re-production exact factory harness, name escapes me right now, but I will dig it up for you. That costs, I believe around $700-$800 for that original harness, I paid around $180 for my 12 circuit hot rod modern harness.
Check out my wiring tribulations under “Show your Ride” on my restorations wiring. Your choice, just depends on how original you want it to be. I am slow as molasses in the restoration process ( )but in the end it turned out well.
I will dig up the maker of the factory style harness, I saw a 58 Dodge version and looked great!
There are at least two companies that make wiring harnesses. But don’t get scared off by the $700 price just yet.
Remember that the wiring is in “sections”…you don’t have to replace all the wiring. just replace the under-hood harness first. i remember my first '59 had brittle wiring, and one day a replacement ignition wire some previous owner had patched in shorted…lots of smoke withthe entire length melting the insulation off. Scary, but no fire.
Y’nZ is one company. Try Googling ‘replacement wiring harnesses’, or something to that effect. Hemmings Motor News online lists various vendors. Shop around for best price, obviously.
