'59 Plymouth Forum

Matthew Keij wrote: ↑Sun Apr 22, 2018 3:16 pm Ok, don’t order these drums! The part number is for 10 inch drums. Need to find a part number for the 11 inch drums

Matthew, did you ever find the correct part number for the 11 inch replacement drums? Art went to NAPA, and discovered what you already knew - the P/N given in the article, is for 10 inch drums, not 11 as needed for '59 Plymouths.

vanguy16 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 20, 2021 4:39 pm Hi Matthew,

Did you replace the axle and diff as well?
Or is this job just dealing with the hub?

Mike, the approach described in this article keeps the original axle and differential. It separates the hub from the drum, so that the drum can be replaced with '65 or later drums that mount to the '59 hub affixed to the original tapered axle. Then the drums can easily be removed for brake servicing.

Hello, anyone found out the correct part number for the 11X2 drums?

I’m trying to get your answer, Mike - stay tuned.

2955R from Raybestos.

They don’t have the hub in them. The drums are a bit wider so you need to have the rear lip cut off or make the backing plates fit.

I started to convert over to the 2-1/2" wide rear drums and a 1965 or newer rear axle. After much consternation, I decided to rebuild my original
setup with the 11" x 2" wide drums with new brake shoes. Yes this original setup is more difficult to remove the rear drum assembly and you have to use a special puller. My original drums came off relatively easily with the puller, and when I re-installed the new drums I coated the hub and tapered axel area with a fair amount of anti'-seize lubricant so future removal if needed should be fairly easy. I put on roughly 1200 miles each year on my 59 Fury attending car events. At 1200 miles added each year to new drums, I figured it would be ten years minimum before I would have to re-do the brakes and by that time I will most likely be gone to Sport Fury heaven. To me is just wasn't worth changing out the rear axle.

In that same regard, I was also going to go with a double brake reservoir and replace my original single reservoir unit. I realize the double reservoir
is a safer system but again it is rare that a single brake cylinder reservoir will totally fail instantly. More likely you will feel a soft peddle indicating the system needs attention. Again, I am staying with the original system, and I have spare parts in the shelf just in case.

Art Schlachter, Danville, Ky

“Art Schlachter wrote: To me is just wasn't worth changing out the rear axle.

Just to be clear, Art - the approach described here doesn’t advise changing out the rear axle. It advises separating the hub from the drum, pressing in new lug bolts, mounting it permanently to the axle with the original nut, and procuring drums that will easily slide on or off the assembly. The rear axles are retained.

Hi Mstthew.

Center (Axle hole) bore on the Raybestos 2955R worked fine? I can't seem to find that information anywhere I loom.

Mike, is your question does the hole in the center of the 2955R drum clear the hub as outlined here?

The answer to that is yes. However, what doesn't fit is the drum itself, without alteration. The depth of the drum is deeper than that of your original drum. Matthew suggests that it might be possible to trim the backing plate where they collide, or cutting the lip off of the drum. I don't know which path he took, or how easy it is to do the latter - perhaps he can advise here.

Matthew,

We are in the process of using the 2259r drums and they are a pretty loose fit, did you encounter the same issue?

I don't know how much or how often Matthew reads the Forum these days, Mike.

Where is the loose fit? Is it in the holes in the drum around the studs? This from the article:

Here's where the fun begins. You now need to press in new studs. The stock lug bolts on these old Mopars are 1/2-20 UNF thread with a 0.622" knurl. The knurl is the ridged part of the stud that fits into the hub. In order to have a good tight press fit you need to make sure whatever stud you use has a knurl size of at least 0.622", but it can't be too large either. If it's too large, it will be difficult to press in and you stand a chance of damaging the hub. NAPA has studs that have a 0.623" knurl (part number BK 641-1128) and these work very well.

Is it possible that the threaded portion of the studs you pressed into the hub is slightly undersized? Did you use BK 641-1128s?

Then again: Those studs were recommended for the 10" drums. So I guess that is a question for Matthew - I'll try to get him to comment.