'59 Plymouth Forum

Some tips when it's necessary to replace your oil pump without pulling the engine. READ THE SERVICE MANUAL AND PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT IT SAYS. I glanced thru it and then did it my way. (Wrong) I took the front u joint off but I don't think it's necessary. Remove the two bolts on the transmission mount and insert two long 3" bolts in the holes to keep it from moving to far back or forward. Take exhaust flange nuts off the manifold studs, take the nuts and washers off the motor mounts. I removed the radiator so l could get the fan off. The fan was so close to the radiator it would have hit the radiator when l raised the front of the engine. Drop the steering link. I did this on my lift so I used my tall screw jack with a 6" long piece of 4 x 4 placed under the crank pulley to lift the front of the engine. You can rent one or buy one at Harbour Freight, Lift the engine enough to get the rubber mounts out of the housings then place 2 inch, l said 2" thick wood blocks between the round metal mount housing and the bracket on the engine then lower the engine. That gives you ample clearance to get the pan off. When installing the new pump make sure the collar at the base of the pump shaft is seated all the way into the hole in the main bearing cap. Refer to utube. I made a pump priming tool out of a 3/8 x 16" ratchet extension that I can power with Yvonne's new drill motor l got her for Christmas. More to follow.
Dick

Pichuhs! And, did Yvonne get you that garden sprinkler you always wanted?

All the pictures have comments. Before installing the pump l inserted the pump drive and distributor to make sure everything stayed in place when l installed the pump. I was concerned because the previous pump failure was caused by the drive end of the shaft wearing/breaking on the top half of the oil pump shaft male flat only. Then l installed the pump and the pan. Next l will fill the pan with oil remove the pump drive, distributor and valve covers then using my home made priming tool and Yvonne's drill motor to pump oil throughout the engine. Next l will lower the engine in place, button everything up and give it a go.
Dick

Lowered engine in place, it's a snap with two screw jacks and a lift. The right side exhaust pipe flange fell perfectly in place with the exhaust manifold flange, the left side was a different story, had to loosen the entire left side exhaust system because of tight fit against the fly wheel housing. Glad l used clamps instead of welding all the pipes. Added oil and water, installed distributor. Where the oil pressure sender installs in the block I installed a 1/8" brass tee then l installed the electric sender so I still have the idiot light and a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the tee. It started immediately, the idiot light went out and the pressure gauge read 60 lbs. at idle and almost 80 when l raced the engine. SO, l have a convertible again.
Dick

Amazing, Dick. Amazing. Say, what are you doing this weekend?

Valve tappets are noisey, will adjust them, adjust timing, install air cleaner then take a top down ride along the beach thru Jupiter Island to Hobe Sound. Will try to remember to take pictures.
Dick.

Well, l didn't make it to Hobe Sound. I drove to a car show in Stuart, FL. On l-95 about 20 miles from my house. Cruised at 65 MPH, the cars ride was as smooth as silk and as quiet as a church mouse, same on the way home, what a pleasure it was. I pray it stays that way.
Dick

Dick; sound great all is well !!! Mark