Disc Brake Conversion

[Faulkner]

Stefan Steinmaier did it! Read about it here:

http://www.59plymouth.net/showcase/stei ... page3.html

http://www.59plymouth.net/showcase/stei ... page4.html

http://www.59plymouth.net/showcase/stei ... page7.html

[Dick Koch]

Thanks Faulkner and Stephan for this enlightening thread. Like you Stephan when I got my 59 SF in 2002 and on the way to it's first car show the brakes failed. In a panic I was able to stop it with the parking brake and pull to the side of the road. Fortunately I was right in front of a parts store so I purchased a wrench and some brake fluid and limped home. I decided to go with the AAJ Disc Brake conversion in 2002 mainly because I never knew which lane I would be in when I had to stop. When I restored Charleen I installed power brakes and unbeknownst to me there was a slight drag on the brake pads, enought to wear the pads down to bare metal in a very short time. I wondered why the front brakes were generating so much dust. I just finished rebuilding the system and am including all the part numbers needed for a rebuild.

THE ROTORS COME WITH RACES AND IT'S FROM A 73-89 PLYMOUTH #53148. AUTOZONE PART #5314.
ROTOR SEALS ARE NAPA #19500.
BRAKE PADS ARE AUTOZONE PART #BG052S. (NO DUST)

THE CALIPERS ARE FROM 78-79 CAMARO (UGH!):
RIGHT CALIPER - AUTOZONE #C217R WITH A 7/16" SAE BANJO BOLT THRU BRAKE HOSE.
AUTOZONE #C222R WITH A 1/2" SAE BANJO BOLT THRU BRAKE HOSE.

LEFT CALIPER - AUTOZONE #C216L WITH A 7/16" SAE BANJO BOLT THRU BRAKE HOSE.
AUTOZONE #C223L WITH A 1/2" SAE BANJO BOLT THRU BRAKE HOSE.

MAKE SURE YOU DETERMINE WHICH BANJO BOLT YOU HAVE. AT FIRST I GOT THE CALIPERS MOUNTED AND THEN DISCOVERED I HAD THE 1/2" BOLT AND I NEEDED THE 7/16" BOLT.

Dick.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

I did too and it was an all MOPAR parts conversion too! No GM parts were used. See my thread on the "Show your ride" restoration link.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1317&start=60 (page 5 on my never ending story of my restoration)

All of the methods work fine, choose the one you are more comfortable with doing.


John Q.

[Dick Koch]

After completely rebuilding the front discs brakes on Charleen I was still experiencing a drag on the front wheels. After talking to a local mechanic and Roger at AAJ Brakes it was determined I had a Master Cylinder for 4 wheel Power drum brakes. Roger said the latest updated master cylinder is for a 1976 Dodge Dart. It is a Centric #130-63019. I found a new one at Rockauto for $45.99. Roger advised to remove the wire bale on the cover to allow it to fit under the booster drum and drill and tap it for two socket head cap screws. I have attached a couple of pictures.
Dick.

[Dick Koch]

Roger at AAJ Brakes sent me information on the proper hookup for front disc, rear drums brakes.
See diagrahm.
Dick.

[RICKYMOPAR]

Dick, If you were having drag on the front brakes with the first dual master cylinder, you need to remove the residual valve and spring under the brass line seat of the front brake line in the master cylinder.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

Dick's brake line diagram is how I plumb my car with a 66 Dodge Dart (A body) Wagner master cylinder, Mine was an equal size reservoir MC with a single snug down bolt in the top. It was for a 4 wheel drum car but I don't remember taking out the residual valve in it. Unless, Mopar Ricky took it out when I was not looking...

Works great for my car...

John Q.

[Dick Koch]

John - I had the same MS as you, it was for drum/drum brakes. I did have it plumbed correctly. When I first converted to disc brakes back in 2002 AAJ brakes supplied the master cylinder. When I did the restore and added Power Brakes for some reason I installed a new master cylinder albiet the wrong one. I have everything out waiting for the new correct master cylinder to arrive.
Dick.

[RICKYMOPAR]

Master cylinders set up for disc brakes do not have the residual valve. Not needed and causes drag. No return springs for disc calipers,The residual valve traps fluid to make up for drum brake adjustments. that is why you can pump your drum brakes up and they feel better.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

We'll, there you go! Mopar Rick knows all! This is what he does for a living so it is good advice!

Thanks Rick!


John Q.

[Dick Koch]

OK, got my new M/S installed. First thing is to remove the wire bale and throw it away. Next drill and tap the M/S with two 12-24 holes to hold cover on. I decided rather than drill the M/S for the stop light switch I would install the switch in the brake line. The master cylinder fits nicely under the P/B canister and is no more difficult to get the lid off than any other M/S, single tub or double tub. I have included some pictures.
Dick.

[RICKYMOPAR]

Great idea.