I'm thumbing through the Goers catalog tonight, looking for those rear splash pan shield clips, and came across the splash shield page (page 28). And I'm realizing, that there should be splash shields over the front suspension A-frames:
Some of the staples are still in place, with shards of the shields. I don't see, though, that Goers has these in his catalog for '59 Plymouths. Or, am I missing something? If you've gotten from Goers - what is the part number? Or, if he doesn't have them - what have you done to replace them?
Dan - Check "Dick convertible project" page 17. It was easy to install mine because the inner fenders were not installed yet. It should not be to hard if you take the wheels off the car. I made the staples out of some galvanized mechanics wire l had for many years. I measured the distance between the holes, l happend to have a chisel the right width and bent the wire around it and made my own staples. Send Gary a note, if he has them he will probably send you some. Save the staples you have and check with an upholstery shop. Auto or furniture.
Dick
From the looks of things, all the staples are there, Dick (although Gary does say "heavy duty staples are included..."). And now, I'm contemplating the mushroom factor...
Dick Koch wrote:It was easy to install mine because the inner fenders were not installed yet.
Well, what if mine weren't installed either?! I need to jockey the alignment of the fenders with the hood - and if I had the front clip off, I could:
1) remove the hood and get the little hood corner bend fixed (because the hood is too @%#!&!! close to the cowl), replace the snapped bolts on the hinge-to-hood surface (Matthew, I think my hinges are fine - not sure I'm going to replace with the ones I bought), and get the front lip of the hood underside reinforced at a weak spot, which also shows as a little crimp on the hood surface;
2) clean up the underside fenders real well, and make sure I've protected them well;
3) get access to all the grimy upper parts of the suspension;
4) detail the engine compartment more easily, including the firewall; and
5) address the alignment issues with the hood and fenders.
I dunno, I think I am talking myself into it. Hey, has anyone done a frame off without a rotisserie?
Kidding! There are limits. I just don't know mine! Lessee, how many years until the 60th Anniversary at Carlisle...
Well, not this weekend. It's a "honey do" weekend, there's posts to set and a fence to put up. Just payin' my dues, folks. But... Am I crazy?
Dick Koch wrote:Dan - If possible scrape the crud off, then wire brush with a 3 inch coarse cup brush on a small side grinder (harbor freight). I know it will be difficult laying on your back (wear goggles) but it will make the job less difficult. Make sure you clean all oil and grease with a solvent like minreal spirits. Next brush OSPHO every where, let set for 10 minutes then lighhtly wipe with a rag. Best to let set overnight then coat with Eastwood encapsulator, two coats if possible. It's an epoxy and you should not need the chassis black.
Dick
Oooh! Eastwood has a 10% off sale on coatings today. I'm guessing you'd recommend brush-on encapsulator for the the undercarriage, Dick? Being under the car, I can see all that overspray coming down on me... Wouldn't be so bad, if I could target my bald spot.
At a minimum i'd get a gallon. By the way I did the frame and the underside of the floors, two coats. You will need some for all the bits and pieces.
Dick
Just a little tinkering today... Removed the spare tire for the first time ever, cleared the trunk and pulled up the cheap carpet. It's clear that (from here, and the underside) patch panels were once welded in. Not too shabby a job, I'll clean this up, rustproof and paint.
Dick, the piece of trunk trim I sent you, I bought from Jim Rawa - mine is still on the car. It's a real mess - looks like an amateur tried to bang out some dents - think you could do anything with it? It might be useful to someone, even if it's not in perfect condition.And damn! Whoever worked on it, put the nuts back on without any washers. In many cases, the nuts pulled into the bolt holesI can't get enough grip on the nuts to keep a socket from spinning on it. Anyone got any ideas about getting these off, short of drilling them out?I'm also interested to know, what folks do with these bulb sockets. I want to take the housings to the plater, but they don't look like they pop out to me. What to do here?I'm preparing to drop the gas tank and the exhaust so I can start power brushing the rust off the undercarriage. The tank bolts cleaned up nicely, soaking now in some Liquid Wrench. I think the bolts and the straps are salvagable.But the exhaust manifold bolts look ugly!
I'm not going to chance it. I'm going to cut the exhaust out just below the headers, and drive it (loudly!) to a shop where they can remove them professionally.
Trunk floor looks good. OSPHO and encapsulator would be good. That piece of trim is beyond repair, l just made one from a piece of trim l had for a gentleman in arkansas. As far as the nut a 3 inch metal cutoff wheel on a drill motor or air cutoff tool from Harbour Freight should do it BUT you need the surgical skills of a dentist OR a Dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel. As far as the light sockets go find a sacrificial knife in the house, you need to pry up the lip of the socket (no easy task). Replacement bulb sockets can be had at NAPA. Save the old sockets and mark where they were, if I'm not mistaken some are double contact and some are single contact. Pieces like the tank bolts and straps is where the blast media cabinet comes in handy. For the larger pieces they can be sandblasted with a tool from Harbour Freight that you stick right in the bag of 30/60 sand. Always use sandblasting sand, play sand or any other sand is nothing but grief. All of this provided you have a air compressor of ample capacity. Harbour Freight has good prices on air compressors. Cut the exhaust out but save it so they can match it up. I personally would wait until the car is completely finished before you take it to the muffler shop to have the new exhaust installed. Don't forget never seize on all bolts.
Dick
I ordered a gas filler tube grommet today on ebay, tomorrow I plan to drop the tank. I crawled under to inspect. Looks pretty yucky under there!
Dick, I saw where you advised Rob from Michigan:
Dick Koch wrote:The filler tube has an O-ring at the end where it goes into the tank. Spray some WD40 on that area. Underneath the car you should see the filler tube where it exits the outer tube in the trunk. there should be approx. 2" exposed. If you can get a rubber strap or chain strap wrench on this area and give it some twists you should be able to work it out. Then go to the top of the tube with the cap on and twist it clockwise and pull up. Should come out.
I was thinking that with the gas tank drained, connections removed and straps removed - it might be possible to break the filler tube connection by twisting the tank. What are your thoughts about that? I think it's going to be tight to get a strap around that tube.
While I was under there, I tore off a piece of the material between the tank and the trunk floor:
I like Dick's idea of doubling up on roofing material for this - I think that should do nicely.
Dick Koch wrote:As far as the nut a 3 inch metal cutoff wheel on a drill motor or air cutoff tool from Harbour Freight should do it BUT you need the surgical skills of a dentist OR a Dremel tool with a small cutoff wheel.
I first tried a small diamond blade cutoff wheel:
But, after I snapped that, I called out the big gunsThat was the ticket. All it took was a steady hand and light pressure, and the nuts evaporated - to the level where I could work the thin remnant out with a screwdriver, and peel it off with vise grip pliers.More caked Idaho desert dust, and some surface rust - and we know what I need to do for that.
Now I remember why I started this website - so I could get help with my own car! Many thanks for the suggestion, Dick. I am so happy to have this piece of trim finally off the car, it's been a struggle for many years.
Are you sure this trim piece can't be saved? Perhaps I'll send it to you via "Keij Express" so you can look it over. Judging from the miracles you worked with my other trim, I'm betting you can make something show worthy of this.
There are limits. I just don't know mine! Lessee, how many years until the 60th Anniversary at Carlisle... 
Many thanks for the suggestion, Dick. I am so happy to have this piece of trim finally off the car, it's been a struggle for many years.