Matthew Keij wrote:How about free shipping?
I am driving to Florida after Carlisle!!!
Dick Koch wrote:Dan - Do you think the above will work!!!
D*mn! Am I slow on the uptake. Fershur, if Matthew drives down with the valance and splash pan, that cuts the shipping charges in half. "Cept, we have to factor in cheesesteaks
T.W. Sam found his way out to the garage today, and took off the valance and splash pan. Now Faulkner looks completely toothless:
I snapped five or six bolts getting these off, despite liquid wrench - not sure that it's worth drilling them out and retapping, I may just remove the (speed?) nut and replace with stainless hardware.
Here's the bad boys. Rusty, but not beyond redemption.Some shots of the valance - banged up pretty good, but again, redeemable.There are brackets that were spot welded to the valance - one was broken near the spot weld, in the other case the spot weld snapped. These will need to be straightened and rewelded.The splash pan apparently took a hit while Braille driving - there's no rust through, but instead of straighening it, someone just glommed filler onto it... (*sigh*.) This will have to be busted out and the pan straightened.Better get these off the lawn before the rain comes. I wouldn't... er, want for them to get rusty.As I was removing the splash pan, I came across this guy. I took it as an omen: Get your butt in gear on this project, who knows how long it will be, before you are belly up.
Oh yeah, I did get the taillight housings off while I was at it today. Here's a closeup of the spot that's going to need some attention:
The housings themselves are in great shape, but will be going off to Frankford Plating for replating.What's the secret to removing the bulb sockets? Seems to me Matthew recently did this...The rear housing gaskets turned to Idaho dust, but I have Goers replacement for these. But not for the front turn signals! Does Goers have these? Matthew, chapter and verse!
By now, I've collected a significant amount of hardware, all bagged and labeled, but all... nice and rusty.
My old man had a motor hooked up to his workbench that I inherited - I had great aspirations one time of redoing my own stainless, but I quickly proved incompetent, and surrendered to those more skilled (read: Dick Koch). But I've attached a brass brush, and it cleans up various parts nicely.
Is this what I should be using - with a litle Ospho after brushing? Is there something else that gets the job done quicker? Do you paint your bolts and nuts, and with what?
Dick - I've read elsewhere on the Forum that you've had great luck with Rustoleum black appliance paint. I'll be using encapsulator for sure, on the underbody - but where might you use it, in place of encapsulator?
I also recall (but can't find) a discussion about what kind of pad to put between the body and the gas tank. It seems that there might originally have been an asphalt-impregnated material. I plan to drop my tank and replace - any thoughts about this?
Finally - I'll be replacing the exhaust, but I dread backing off the nuts on the manifold studs (for fear the studs will snap). For sure, I'll wire brush the studs, and be soaking with liquid wrench and tapping before I attempt. And the good news is the motor was replaced ten years ago, so it's not like the exhaust system has been untouched for fifty years. But other than the above - any advice for me?
Dan I did the tank on my post.The original tank pad is about 1/8" -1/4" thick,it was A cardboard type felt. I used A rubber floor mat that was getting tossed out. It had A diamond pattern to it and was the right thickness.I painted mine with por15 they also come in rattle can version. Rustshield works also but have only seen it in quart cans(brush). Goers has the light gaskets. The valance,mine was worse,A good body guy will do that one like new,mine turned out great!! My tank pad looks like what your car is parked on. Mark
Well, here's my two cents. Your valance and splash pan look new to me, compared with what I've worked with before. With your permission I will have the welding done here. The interior of your rear tail light housings should have a bright finish after plating where the bulbs reside and will not need painting but on the front turn signal housings I used white gloss enamel instead of aluminum paint and they are much brighter. Your can buy adhesive backed foam used to seal doors and windows at the hardware store for your front turn signal housings, if two wide, cut to width with a razor blade. Ace also has 1/8" thick rubber or black gasket sheets you could also use to make gaskets.
One of the best investments I ever made is a blasting cabinet from Harbor Freight, I got the one for under $200 that sits on a bench. (no legs). Use glass bead media that you can also get at Harbor Freight. I've done three restorations with mine. Only thing is you will need is an Air Compressor, good buys at Harbor Freight. A retiree should have these items anyway. I painted all fasteners and small parts with encapsulator, you won't need to ospho after blasting.
The Gloss black Appliance Epoxy I used primarily in the engine bay. Horns, Inner fenders, brake booster, PS pump, Brackets, Fan, pulleys, Generator, etc.
A piece of heavy weight tar paper the size of the gas tank, find a roofer, he may just give you a piece. If its light weight, double it. As far as the exhaust flange bolts and nuts, good luck.
Have fun,
Dick.
Dick Koch wrote:Your valance and splash pan look new to me, compared with what I've worked with before. With your permission I will have the welding done here.
Dick! I'm begging your permission to have them sent to you via Keij Express! I don't have anyone north of the Mason Dixon Line that I trust to get this right.
