'59 Plymouth Forum

I'm considering a pointless existence . I see petronix must make a conversion fit for the poly 318, but is a hei distributor available? I see on ebay ones supposedly fitting the 59 are available, but I'm supposing this is in error. If the petronix or distributor has been used by anyone i'd appreciate getting pointed in the right direction. Pun intended.

I do see petronix kits on ebay for dual point distributors. Wouldn't you know mine is single.

Steve - I had Petronix in my 59 Ply 318, my 60 Desoto 383, and my 59 Ply 361. It failed in the desoto and left me stranded, so when I restored Charleen with the 318 I went back to points.
Since then I have installed Chrysler Electronic Ignition in all my cars except the 361 which I am going back to dual points to keep it original.
318 use a Chrysler electronic distributor from a 73 Duster with the 340 engine (same springs)
361 or 383 use a Chrysler electronic distributor from a 400 engine.
Do not use the Chrysler Modulator for two reasons, they are not that reliable and they are 12 volt start, 6 volt run with a ballast resistor.
Use a GM Modulator with a piece of 1/4 to 3/8 thick aluminum attached as additional heat sink, then you are getting 12 volt start and 12 volt run without a ballast resistor. Just connect the resistor wires to each other. You get a much hotter spark and can even open the plug gap to .40.
Use a MSD black epoxy filled coil it can lay on its side. Do not use the MSD red coil, it is oil filled and must be installed upright. The Higher voltage will cause a standard oil filled coil to get to hot and possibly over heat and explode.
My highway mileage in the convertible with the 318 2bbl. carb. went from 14 highway to 17.85 average on a trip we took to New Orleans and back.
Search 73, 340 engine or Chrysler Electronic Distributor and you can see how I did it.
If you want to go this way and have anymore question, feel free to ask.
Dick.

Also Time your engine at 2,500 RPM with the timing pulley mark on "0". Then you will not need the vacuum advance on the distributor, just cap the vacuum advance and carb. outlets. My cars kick right over and run great. I learned this from a local MOPAR guru.
Dick.

Thanks Dick as usual "you the man"!!!!

Steve - I used rebuilt distributors from Pepboys or Rock Auto with new cap and rotor. The MSD coil also came from Pepboys and is the most expensive item in the system. Around $52.00. Carry the old coil as a spare in your trunk just in case. It would probably be a good time to change the spark plug wire to a better grade to carry the higher voltage.

The GM modulator is from NAPA # TP45SB or Auto Zone DR100VC. The problem I had on our trip to New Orleans was we gutted the voltage regulator and hid the modulator inside. The wires were to small and to far away from the distributor and coil. At idle speed ( you will need a GM 1 wire alternator, I hate to put GM stuff in my cars but in case of a breakdown you can get one anywhere ) the wires wouldn't carry enough current so the engine died.. I used # 8 wire, problem solved. Charleen and the Desoto have the Modulator hidden in the old regulator housing and the Convertible has the Modulator hanging off the rear of the carburetor.

The modulator is crescent shaped with 4 male prongs. There are two small round tits (protrusions) that helped line the modulator up when it was installed on the bottom of a GM distributor. These need to be snipped off and filed down smooth so the modulator will sit flush on the heat sink, make sure you use the dielectric grease on the metal part between the modulator and the heat sink.

The wiring is as follows: On one end of the modulator the terminals are marked W and G, the small one is marked G. This is the distributor side. Red on the distributor to W. Black on the distributor to G. Even though the G terminal is small a regular female terminal will fit nicely.
The coil side of the modulator has one tab marked B and one Marked C. Run a Red wire from the B terminal to the positive terminal on the coil. Run a Black wire from the C terminal to the negative terminal on the coil.

Use the insulated female terminals on the modulator and do not bend the tabs on the modulator. NAPA has a modulator with a lifetime guarantee at double the money. It's really a easy installation.
Good luck,
Dick.

Sounds like a plan. I think i may be able to figure it out thanks to your expert direction. Will start to accumulate parts for spring install. Had minus 12 this am. Frozen pipes and frantic call from a renter. Fortunately no broken pipes!!

Steve,

My experience was different than Dick's - I had the mechanic who replaced my engine, put a Petronix in, and I haven't had a bit of trouble with it for 8 years. Here's a note about it, along with some info about replacing the distributor:

viewtopic.php?p=10044#p10044

Dan

Thanks Dan-will note that in my manual. I'm also thinking of throwing caution to the wind and installing a HEI after market distributor/coil on top type with new plug wires for the sake of simplicity. I see they are available for the 73 340 Dick mentioned. I realize this will stick out like a really sore thumb, but will keep the old parts for posterity. I'm also going to install a GM type alternator so things they are a changing under the old hood!!

Dan thinks he is the WSM (worlds slowest mechanic). Maybe not.

I finally got around to ordering the Petronix. Ordered it through my local Advance Auto parts store.
I have the newer 30-3820 distributor in car so I got the 1381A Petronix for it.
The counter guy couldn't find a coil for it on his computer, but one of my car buddies said a PNX 40111 (Petronix) coil should work. So I'm hoping that will work. Will find out in a couple days when stuff gets here.

Has anybody used the PNX 40111 Petronix coil on their '59?

Am doing this now because car was running rough last Sunday on way to car show. After show, car had difficulty starting. Buddy diagnosed it as point problem, burnt, etc. Happens every couple years it seems.

I'm running the mopar electronic ignition in the 361.
Let me know how the petronix works out for you, it might be interesting for my dads 318

Will do, Matthew.

I also have issues with Petronix, I have not had a problems with mine, but... I have had to help others that have had problems. I even used My own towing insurance to get their vehicles home where we could further diagnose the failure. Yes there is a HEI distributor available if you have the room for it. It sells for under $100. on ebay. I installed one in a Pontiac street rod with a 354 Hemi and it works great. I also used Accell 8MM HEI wires you tailor to fit also an ebay purchase under $4o.

Installed my Petronix today. Actually my friend did it. I held the light for him.
My car is a 318 with a '61 Dodge/Plymouth distributor (part #30-3820) in it. So the Petronix Ignitor (part #1381A) fit in it perfectly. I also got the PNX 40111 Petronix coil and installed that.

My friend has a '71 Dodge Charger Super Bee 383 and he recently installed Petronix in his car. Same part numbers fit his '71 383, so he had mine going in a jiffy.
I don't know if it's been mentioned, but if you already have the correct/newer distributor....installation of the Petronix is much easier if you remove the distributor from the car, especially on the 318 where the distributor is by firewall and difficult to work on.
So anyway, took it for a 10 mile test run and everything works fine. Wonder if gas mileage will improve??? Got 17MPG with points.
Now as long as I got all my tools warmed up, tomorrow I'm installing a new power booster on my '70 Gremlin. I should start a thread on that deal....might help some guys with brake problems.

I WENT BACK TO POINTS IGNITION ---- Had nothing but trouble with the system I installed since the get go. The car always ran good at speed but never at Idle or at a light when in gear. Out of gear it idled great. I had to get the Convertible running good because this saturday is the Lake Mirror Classic and the Convert. has been accepted for the Concours. I won't go into the things I've tried to no avail so I decided to go back to points with prodding from my friend Tony who had come over to see if he could help solve the problem. We jerked the electronic system out, installed the point system and WALLA!!! it started on the first try, ran smooth as silk and when I put it in gear it didn't run rough and want to shut down. Took it for a spin and I could not believe how good it ran, wish it would have been like that on our trip to New Orleans.
Nothing wrong with the electronic ignition system but if I ever install another one it will have the Chrysler Module and not the GM module. The reason I went with the GM module was for a hotter spark, better milage, elimination of the ballast resistor because it was 12 volt start and 12 volt run, and elimination of the vacuum advance system, which is good provided you have a alternator that provides enough current at Idle, mine did not and that seems to have been the trouble all along.
Pay Heed,
Dick.