Colorado Belvedere Convertible progressing

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

Go Roger Go Roger!!! Do it!

[Matthew Keij]

I am still here
The boat isn't in a hurry as it just left Antwerp 30 minutes ago. It should arrived yesterday in Rotterdam.
I've got a day off from work friday but probably not going to pick up the car. Gonna try to move that day to next week.

John, more updates please

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

Matthew, I am trying to! Since my shipment from Gary Goers came in last Saturday I have been doing some of the smaller detail stuff. I now have all the window fuzzies and weatherstripping to put the glass and door hardware back in the doors. I am awaiting a set of new matching door and ignition locks from a vendor in Detroit.Teh came in as Dodge versions without the outer ring around the cylinders so back they went. Vendor re-shipping today and should have them by weeks end.

All done with the under dash wiring. Have not put the battery in to see if all electrical items work or not yet. I have to put the fenders on to terminate the wires to the headlights and park lights before testing the whole system. But before that is done I am also going to do the disc brake spindle switch out since the fenders are all off the car. More room to do that now. Picking up the rotor inner and outer bearings and races today to install in the new rotors I have.

More excitied about your new car coming into port. Please lots of pictures when that happens!

John Q.

[Matthew Keij]

Post pics of the detailing then i need pics!!!

It's a pleasure to say that the vessel is in Rotterdam now! Going to pick her up next wednesday.
Camera is already waiting

[Dick Koch]

John - I hear you talked to Margie (Mar-gee) about the convertible, nice lady. I was looking at your Flicker Photos and was wondering if your car was sandblasted or what kind of Media did they use? If it was sand it looks like it survived any warping of the panels.
Dick.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

Actually Dick, that blasting media is only available in Denver and....

I will have to check with my buddy who's shop we had the car blasted in. It was a low abrasive media that did keep the heat down so no panels were warped. I think it was aluminum oxide but a call tomorrow will answer that question.

I did make the mistake of not taking out the quarter windows from the convert and the media did scatch/blast pits in the glass (which I will have to replace).The media went thru the molding holes and did the etching on the glass.

But there was no warping at all to the panels from any heat build up.It did take longer to blast the convert he said of the original black paint was hard as nails to get come away from the sheet metal. But it sure beats DA'ing it. With my ashtmatic lungs I would have been a goner! It cost me $700 but I got a deal from my buddy who normally charges $1200 to do the job. But I would do it again if and when I do my next car.

John Q.

[Dick Koch]

Thanks for the info - A while back I bought a 50 lb. sandblasting setup from Harbour Freight and use it all the time. I then bought a Soda blasting coversion kit for it from Eastwood and a couple of boxes of soda. I'm going to try it on the hood, deck and doors, because that stripping, sanding etc. is ok if you have the time (which I do) but it's a pain in the neck. I'm reluctant to use the soda on the body because you have to wash it out of all the crevices and water on bare metal defeats the purpose as far as I'm concerned. Thanks for that headsup about the window glass. No need to find out the exact media used.
Dick.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

As some of you have seen in the Mini-Chat area (where I have been using it as a mini-Twitter reporting) I have been working on converting the front drum brakes over to 1978 F body (Aspen/Volare) spindles. Wanting to keep my Convertible as Mopar as possible I tried to use these F body spindles/Caliper brackets that a gentleman on the Forward Look Site (and Ebay (Tuckyman is his handle )says he used on a 57 & 58 Plymouth.

I have done a couple of these conversions on e bodies and B bodies with good results using 73 -75 Abody parts and late 80's M body parts. Nothing wrong with AAJ conversions but wanted to keep it Mopar-ish.

Here are some pic's of the work and the final configuration.

Parts I used were:

Spindles & Disc Brake Brackets $150
New rotors w/o bearings $40
Inner and outer bearings/races two sets & dust seals, $120
rear brake proportioning valve, $48 (not needed but wanted to dial it in correctly, front to back)
New flexible hoses, qty 2, $35
New can of wheel bearing grease $12
A body dual reservoir Master Cylinder, $65
One short section of brake line from MC to proportioning device, $15
Disc brake pads, two sets $40

Total $525

Now, I also choose to get new upper and lower Ball joints, upper control arm bushings and outer tire rods but that was an elective choice since I had those parts off for the conversion and it was best to do the swap out now while it was disassembled already. Those costs are not figured in to the above.

Total

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

Continuing on this saga...I then tried to bleed the brake system yesterday and found that both rear brake wheel cylinders were corroded shut and could not get a drop of Brake fluid out of it thru the bleeder valve.

Put in a call to Mopar Rick (Rick Clapham) and he graciously loaned me his rear drum puller. Rick lives 15 mins from me and picked it up from his milkbox since he was heading out with his granddaughter to the Zoo.

Drums came off in 20 mins, With the right tools anything is possible! Cob webs galore and slightly crusty. Removed the corroded cylinders and brake shores etc from both assemblies, Ordered new cylinders from Autozone, be in on Tuesday.

Dropped off drums for turning at the local Car Quest Auto parts (they have the lathe) and was able to pick the turned drums up today.

Now, big problem, Napa, Car Quest and Autozone had no sources for the rear brake shoes. They are on E bay but will take a while to get here. Thought about a place in South Denver that deals in old auto store parts and today went there with my old corroded shoes and he says he has new re-lined NORS on the shelf, many pairs to be exact, So for $55.00 I have both sets of brand new relined brake shoes! Hot Damn!

Just need the wheel cylinders and I can re-assemble the rear brakes and go back to the bleeding procedure. Once done then I can put on the fenders and hood and terminate the headlight and park lights. Not saying it is fire up time, but with a couple detours...I am getting closer!

Here is a few pics of the rear axle area all disassembled. I turned up the axle brake lines to keep the fluid from leaking out to much, I only have so much kitty liter you know!

[rogerh]

Great "nuts and bolts" story, John. I feel like I was right there with ya.
I love it when the right parts are found, especially after exercising a bit of the ol' grey matter.
From your post, I get the feeling you were not really thinking about the rear axle and its parts. I rebuilt my brakes all around (although Matthew will tell you I did not replace steel lines which SEEMED okay), and a few years later one line's internal rust ruined the new wheel cylinder, I lost brakes and almost wrecked the car.
Neither did I replace rear axle seals or driveline parts, as a result I carried that on my list of worries which made it difficult to fully enjoy the car.
just sayin'...

[Dick Koch]

John - Great work, I did AAJ discs on Reddie back in "02". Rogers right you know, everywhere you go you'll be thinking "I should have listened to Roger"
Just sayin,
Dick.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

Well, you are all right! The only brake lines that I have not done so far on the car is the 2 transverse rear axle lines. When I pick up the wheel cylinders today I will pick up the two brake lines that make that part up and swapped them out.

Now all the lines and cylinders would be spanking fresh with no residual corrosion in the lines. Good comment Team!

I will see if I can pick up the rear axle seals too!


John Q.

[rogerh]

John,
Of course you should trust your own judgment and expertise regarding axle seals and such. I never gave them a thought until Tom Fox told me he replaced his seals (maybe one was leaking? I dont remember). I tend to worry about things that don't need to be worried about.
Regarding the brake lines, my car had the factory-issued single loop brake system, so when one cylinder leaked, I lost ALL hydraulic braking, and had to rely on E-brake.

[RICKYMOPAR]

If your interested I have the 3.58 from the old Sport... While your at the bare bones part.

[Denver 59 Fin Convert]

Rick, that might give it a bit more 'get up and Go" to it. Plus I would not mind changing out the fluids too in the axle.
Let me know how much and I am all in for it.

I tried to find some axle seals today but no luck. At least at Auto Zone when I picked up the rear cylinders.Does anyone have any sources for this tapered axle end seals?


John Q.