Faulkner gets a Redo



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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

I received this note from the company:
Bowers Manufacturing (now WKW Extrusion) wrote:Years ago we use to do some auto trim parts, but that changed in 2013 when we were bought out.

You will need to get these parts stripped, then buffed to help bring some of the luster back, and then brite dip clear anodized.

You might try the following companies:

McNicholes Metal finishing in Redford MI PH# 313-538-3170
Alpha Metal finishing in Dexter MI 734-426-2855
American Anodizing in Ft Wayne IN 260-493-0529
Colors Inc in Indianapolis IN 317-547-0046
Techmetals inc Dayton OH 937-253-5311
Has anyone dealt with any of these companies?
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big m
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by big m »

I had a heck of a time finding an anodizer as well, Dan. I ended up using a place in San Franscisco, all the side trim came out nice, as did the headlight rings and such. The disc for the sport deck was absolutely horrible, and destroyed, and I couldn't get them to refund anything.

I sent another one, along with the gold V to King of Trim in Los Angeles, the V came out perfect, but the disc had been anodized without them fixing the three tiny dings I asked them to remedy. These two items alone cost $300, and my trip to Carlisle was coming up, so I installed it anyways.

---John
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

Well, I don't know if my pieces can be saved, John - but the company claims they are going to refund my money! We'll see. Meanwhile, I'll check out these other companies and try again. At this point, I have nothing to lose.
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william0431
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by william0431 »

Dan, following closely as this fall I will be pulling all my trim to send off for the same kinda treatment. Crying shame about that first place botching your parts like that. Hopefully they own up and reimburse you for the work/damages.
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

Saturday was a bit warmer than it has been lately - I spent some time in the Faulkner garage. I recorded two temps, before and after I ran my propane heater. I like both numbers!

IMG_9173.jpg
IMG_9177.jpg


I should have taken pix of what I did, but wasn't attentive. But, I did get the window channel installed on the trailing edge of the driver's side. Wow, it was tight! I had to spread it by turning a flatblade screwdriver down the length of it to open it up a bit. Even now, though, the power window strains to go up and down. It will go up, but going down it needs a "manual power assist". I notice that it racks a bit on the way down - but, by dropping down towards the rear, not what I would have expected. I need to make a video.

Also, I had foolishly left the driver's vent window open after the last Carlisle in 2015, and the seal shrunk a bit. I replaced it with the original one (I had replaced Faulkner's vent window when I bought it because it was cracked), and it fits well enough - although, the glass needs some coddling when you close it.

Things I guess you have to live with when you have a 60 year old vehicle, I guess. I would like to get the window moving more freely, though. I did put some lithium grease on the trailing edge, I might try some on the leading edge. Will post a video when I get a chance. Sunday was just too damn cold again...
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

I made two videos this evening, one down and one up. For whatever reason, going down seems to be working better tonight. But, going up is definitely a struggle. Watch the trailing edge of the window...



Going down, the trailing edge drops before the entire wind drops. Going up, the trailing edge rises before the entire window rises. Here's my theory: With no flocked channel at all in the rear track, the leading edge did not go deep in the leading channel (which I had replaced fourteen years ago) - it had plenty of wiggle room. Now it is forced to go deep in the leading channel, because I put the trailing channel in where there was none - and, doesn't move until it's forced to, when it has to follow the trailing edge. It's being dragged in the channel.

Maybe I should pop the vent again, and spread the leading channel like I did the trailing channel. But first, maybe try some lithium grease? Doc '59, can you weigh in here?
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Dick Koch
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Dick Koch »

Dan - l had severe drag when l did Charlene and Bertha Irene's windows. I sprayed the channels with silicon spray and now they work with ease.
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

Dick Koch wrote: Tue Mar 19, 2019 6:31 am Dan - l had severe drag when l did Charlene and Bertha Irene's windows. I sprayed the channels with silicon spray and now they work with ease.
See, this is why I do everything Dick tells me to do. I used this stuff - it foams up so it doesn't spray everywhere, then quickly de-foamed and soaked in. Now the window goes up and down like a charm! (I fumbled the video, I'll take another one and post here.)

IMG_9212.JPG


On to the other side - where, I have to replace both the front and rear channel.

Years ago, when I replaced the cracked driver's side vent window frame, I must have drilled out these pop rivets on the leading side of the vent frame before I could remove it - you can't just pull the vent frame up and out, the front and leading edges aren't parallel, and the front edge binds in the door. Unless I'm missing something! Matthew, did we reattach that front bracket when we went to reassemble? The driver's side has bolts in it now:

IMG_9215.JPG


And how the heck did I remove the vent frame with the front bracket off - there's this bracket at the base of it, that's perpendicular to the rear edge that holds the channel:

IMG_9216.JPG


Or is there a way to twist the frame to get it out? Obviously, I did this for the driver's side! It just looks impossible now. We'll, after lunch I'll drill out the rivets and remove the front bracket, and see how it goes from there. Push comes to shove, I could replace as much of the channel as I can from here:

IMG_9218.JPG
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Matthew Keij
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Matthew Keij »

I can’t remember exactly what we did. I remember it was 2006 and it was my first day in the states ever :lol:

I know you can twist the window out but it’s been a while since I did that
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

I drilled out the rivets for the bracket on the leading edge, and now I can maneuver the frame all around. I still don't see how I can get it out, though, without removing the glass. Which, I know I didn't do last time! But, I didn't do this either: viewtopic.php?f=46&t=131

I admit, I don't know how I got it out when I did the driver's side - unless, it was in pieces because of the broken frame. But that wouldn't help me when I go to put it back in again.

I'm gonna bite the bullet, and do like Mike said - drill out the pop rivets for the lower bracket. They're easy enough to replace.
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

That's the ticket. I was able to fenagle the strut to an opening in the door where I could drill the pop rivets out - the bracket actually slides into the strut. Vent window out, channel in, and that doo-hickie for the very top of the channel that I bought 15 years ago from Gary Goers is now in place.

IMG_9219.JPG
IMG_9220.JPG
IMG_9221.JPG


And for those who were on the edge of their seat - pop your popcorn! Here's the window vids, after the patented Dick Koch (TM) method of putting silicone in the channel. Thanks again Dick! :D

What goes down...
...must go up


But, tomorrow's another day. With any luck, I'll get the passenger door all squared away tomorrow.
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

Faulkner wrote: Sat Mar 23, 2019 5:56 pm But, tomorrow's another day. With any luck, I'll get the passenger door all squared away tomorrow.
...and I did! The World's Slowest Auto Mechanic got the channels installed in the passenger side. Up and down the window goes, although it's going to need some breaking in. But it works!
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

Last Saturday I went to the body shop where Faulkner will get some cosmetic body work done, and be repainted in the original Bronze color - with a lot of pix loaded up on my iPad. The good news: The estimate is less than I expected I would have to spend (although, we know how that goes :o ). The bad news: Faulkner will be in their shop for two months. And we know how that goes!

This Saturday, I'll have Faulkner towed to the shop. I'll stress the importance of getting him back in early June, so I'll have a spitting chance of putting him back together before Carlisle. If push comes to shove, I'll resort to driving there using the Dick Koch Patented Milk Crate Seat (TM), but hopefully it won't come to that.

And now, some pitchus...

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Damage never repaired when Faulkner arrived in 2003...
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...not too awful, using Dick's loaner taillight housing for "dry fit"
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Look closely, and you can see crazing in the shim coat of filler
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This will all have to come out and be reworked
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This wheel well lip will need attention, if Faulkner is to wear fender skirts!
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Despite my best efforts to shim the hood away from the cowl (and there has been some improvement)...
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...adjustments are going to be needed here...
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...I'm going to leave it to the body shop.
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Parts to be painted off the car. I osphoed the underside of the "sport deck", and put Eastwood rustproofing on it
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I decided to plug the antenna hole...
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...using JB Weld on 18 gauge sheet metal.
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If the body shop doesn't like it as a base...
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...they can punch it out and do it their way.
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The snorkel tubing arrived that Mark Merritt recommended for cladding trim screws
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ChippLake1
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by ChippLake1 »

Glad you are putting back to the bronze color, that's my favorite along with the emerald green. Are you putting dual rear antennas on it if your plugging the fender hole?
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Faulkner
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Re: Faulkner gets a Redo

Post by Faulkner »

Steve, yup! I have a pair of dual rear antennas. They won't be operable - Dick cut off the piece that protrudes for me - so all I'll have to do is drill holes for the mounting screws.
"If it's new, Plymouth's got it!"
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