'59 Plymouth Forum

Dan; the weather strip adhesive is 3M black stage #2.Got it at Auto Zone, I also forgot to mention it helps to wear rubber gloves, pick up A box of them.It is tough to get off your hands and is easier to peel the glove off and put on another.You want to bond it when it is still tacky but not dry. I started doing too much length and it was drying before I would get there. Room temp and door metal temp can cause variables, doing A little at A time worked best for me.Again gluing both surfaces is best.I put the seam at the bottom and pre-lay out the weather strip so nothing is in the way( it is like A long rope) I started left to right because I am right handed and found that worked the best for me. Mark

Look back doors are on!! Problem, weatherstrip ain't working, too wide and thick. Back to the drawing board. I got it from Mopar Direct. They say it is the same as original I say no way. The gap in between is too narrow and the strip does not offer enough compression. The original or what is left of it looks closer to 55 Plymouth from Restoration Specialties. Was also thinking of using some plumbers putty rolled in A ball and placed at various locations, close the door then open it and measure the thickness to see how it compresses. Any thoughts? Front doors may be ok I don't know yet, but the back ain't going too tight!!!! Mark

I had what may have been a similar problem with a Chevy I was restoring. The w. strip was too thick. I used a very sharp pair of upholstery scissors to shave about 3/8" off the back and re glued it after doing an appraisal. Worked out in my case. Good luck.

Did A little more this weekend, like I said A little more. Steering wheel back on, seat bolted down, kick panels on wiring /horn/dome light complete. Everything is now functional. Still looking into door weather strip. Talked to Mopar Mel the other day. Anyone deal with him? He say's 57,58,59 strips are the same and are sponge not rubber,compresses easier. I may have him send A foot to check it out.55 looks close as well. Later Mark

Original weatherstripping is rubber but it has some sort of coating.
Rubber works perfect and I would check out Andy Birmbaum for the weatherstripping.

Your work looks fantastic!

Never did business with Mopar Mel myself but know a lot of people got burned dealing with him, there must be a reason why most people call him Mopar Hell..... buyer beware!

Ron

Mark - Do a search above on Mopar Mel and you will have your answer.
Dick

Got the doors on, lined up,striker adjusted etc. Nice day today it was 75 degrees. I had trouble with removing the striker plate screws at the rear doors. It is easier to line up the door with the striker off. I had A couple of rusty threaded screws, had one snap the head off so I had to take the back seat out and get access to it by taking out the small panel below the rear stationary window. I ran A tap through all the threads (12-24) and ordered new screws from restoration specialties part #5178j 12-24 x 5/8. Worked out good. Still A ways off but it is getting there. Mark P.S. Hey Dick, what is that thing in the last picture,ever seen one of them. That's the old one,semi retired to the pole barn.

Great pix, Mark! I gotta get up to that corner of the state so I can see your car... Unless you're bringing it to Carlisle some day.

Yeah, I never shoveled once this year, and today I was outside in a T-shirt. Craziest February on record. It won't be long, I guess, before Dick has a beachfront property.

That's looking gooooooooood!

Bring it to Carlisle 2017!!!!

Mark - What a beautiful job and car, makes my work look poor, wish l had the patience to achieve perfection like you. Regarding the last picture, yes l see those every winter they show up when the Snow Birds do. Waste Management advertises all year with big signs on thier garbage trucks. "FREE SNOW REMOVAL".
Dick.

55 survivor wrote: ↑Wed Jul 06, 2016 5:01 pm Used Xmat from eastwood. Thought I would try it.Anybody else done it before. It does make it sound dead. I tried to use the scrap pieces and get it inside the corners but I don't think that is that neccesary.I am going for sound more so than insulation. Going to do the floor later and if any left over pieces it will go in the trunk. XMAT from Eastwood#15841. My face did not even get dirty!!!!!!!! Mark

Mark, I bought my kit today -- floor + trunk + firewall, along with the roller. And my face did not get dirty either! Funny, I'm great at buying stuff. It's the installing it, that's the problem...

Now, if Matthew just gets his green card

Dan

Lookin sweet Mark

Great job

Looks like just in time for spring crusin

Cheers
Vic

Still picking away. I put the trim on the door panels.The little bend tabs were not too rusty and the cleaned up and went on ok .I put plastic over the doors and will be behind the door panels, don't know if it is needed but I don't think it would hurt. I used heavy plastic sheets and double backed carpet tape. Does anyone know what door panel clips to use or A source and part number? I have A restoration specialty catalog and I think it might be #2607. The things aren't cheap I need about 60 of them. I have some originals to compare, the rest of them were missing or toast !! Still looking for door handle escutcheons 2" outside with A 1/2" hole in the center. I need 8. I only have one that was original and it is metal. Worst comes to worst I will make something out of plastic and A hole saw. Mark

Nice Mark - l used plastic behind the door panels to keep any water off the panels, you never know. You can source white nylon escutcheons at ACE hardware. On the panel clips, make sure you get the flat metal clips not the ones made out of wire. I used the wire type not realizing how much they show.
Dick.